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Geronimo 

5.8

   

FA: Brian, Jonathon, and Vicki Smoot 1990
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 530 page views

Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 8, 2003


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Start of the climb


Description 

This is the furthest east climb on the upper wall. Steep and juggy, but not a hard climb. There is a climb above it (5.11b).


Protection 

2 bolts for the anchors, and 5 draws for the climb.



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Geronimo on the right and Clean  underwear on the left.

Geronimo on the right and Clean underwear on the ...


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By Lee Gitlin
May 13, 2004
rating: 5.8+

After clipping the anchors, the rope will want to find a slot in the top roof. This makes for mucho rope friction if your second prefers to toprope.

By Zed
From: Gotham City
Jul 12, 2005
rating: 5.8

This route is really fun for the grade. Most sport routes in this grade range usually seem like afterthoughts. Does anyone know why the moderate to the left is so sparsely bolted?

By Boissal
From: SLC, UT
Sep 8, 2006

Fun ! Can be run in one pitch with the upper part (11b I believe), although rope drag can be a problem. Watch for the slot that Lee mentioned, you can feel it eating through your rope when you lower.

By S. Gileadi
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 10, 2007
rating: 5.8

Pretty fun route. No way of avoiding getting your rope in that slot as far as I can tell, but it only seemed to happen when leading the climb, not when it's toproped (between the second to last bolt and the last I believe). The way that the bolts are positioned slots your rope right in it... bummer.

The climb itself seems to go to the right of the final bulge, however, going straight up and over it (sidepull to a long reach) is a lot of fun and goes maybe at 5.9+ I think. Certainly a bit more tough than the crux of the 5.9 route next to this one. Pretty sure that people haven't been doing it that way as the edge that you pull to go over it was chock full of dirt and rocks. We cleaned most of the dirt and rocks out of it so go for it and go straight over! Makes the route that much more fun.

By S. Gileadi
From: Salt Lake City
May 31, 2008
rating: 5.8

PS. Linking this up with the 11b above is a must!