This route is really fun for the grade. Most sport routes in this grade range usually seem like afterthoughts. Does anyone know why the moderate to the left is so sparsely bolted?
Fun ! Can be run in one pitch with the upper part (11b I believe), although rope drag can be a problem. Watch for the slot that Lee mentioned, you can feel it eating through your rope when you lower.
By S. Gileadi From: Salt Lake City Jun 10, 2007 rating: 5.8
Pretty fun route. No way of avoiding getting your rope in that slot as far as I can tell, but it only seemed to happen when leading the climb, not when it's toproped (between the second to last bolt and the last I believe). The way that the bolts are positioned slots your rope right in it... bummer.
The climb itself seems to go to the right of the final bulge, however, going straight up and over it (sidepull to a long reach) is a lot of fun and goes maybe at 5.9+ I think. Certainly a bit more tough than the crux of the 5.9 route next to this one. Pretty sure that people haven't been doing it that way as the edge that you pull to go over it was chock full of dirt and rocks. We cleaned most of the dirt and rocks out of it so go for it and go straight over! Makes the route that much more fun.
By S. Gileadi From: Salt Lake City May 31, 2008 rating: 5.8