This climb is approached by traversing along the ledges on the East face of the island (paralleling the stream). When you gain a ledge with a tree, (you will see a small 4 bolted route, with the bottom bolt missing a hanger, climb up a left facing corner/ramp to a ledge and continue on north. You will see a pair of cracks, with a bolted route in the middle. This is the left-most crack. Climb this thin crack to the roof, and pop over. The anchors are to the right.
Protection
Bring a selection of medium gear for the anchors. There are 2 anchors on a new bolted route to the right. HOWEVER, 1 of these bolts is suspect. Beware.
There is a new set (anchor) of bolts with rap rings at the top of this route; thank you to the person(s) who set this up, it is appreciated.
By Walt Haas From: Salt Lake City, UT Mar 28, 2007 rating: 5.5
At the higher end of the 5.5 range, almost a 5.6. Bring some small stoppers and cams to protect the thin crack.
From the anchor at the top, you can boulder back down to the starting ledge by a gully to the south, or you can scramble over the top of the island and from there hike on established trails back to the picnic area, or farther west to Salt Lake Slips for some fun bolted climbs.
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