This is a nice climb that rises out of the water right on the arete that separates Dark Star from Autumnal Wall. Good clips, steep to overhanging rock. It does share a lot of its line with Shibumi.
Protection
2 bolts up top for the anchors. 8 draws for the climb
This route is really FUN! Reminds me a bit of Black Monday. Though it is not as steep it has those good holds that keep coming at ya. Pumped when u get to the crux near the last bolt. Try to stay off the blocky stuff to the right down low or u are just cheating yourself. I have heard it is called "fine arete".
This route crosses over the old route Shibumi. Shibumi (look at Ruckman's guide) does a hand traverse along the ledge, gets to the arete and then crosses left at the faint left diagonalling cracks near the top. They share the middle bolts. Shibumi's crux was on the arete and was rated 5.11a. The FA of the arete line called it a 5.11b. I have done it and would call it a 5.11a. However, I wouldn't argue over 5.11a or 5.11b. Now to the 5.11d rating, I would be hard pressed to agree with you on that. I need to get back on it and see what I think. Anyone else have an opinion on this route?
Dark Star Gully
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