Just left of Hollow Man is a big roof. This climb kind of shares the start of Flamin' Freddie, but it climbs the bolted line up over the roof. The roof can be worked with flakes and underclings.
Protection
2 anchors atop the climb and 3 draws for the face.
I finally red-pointed this climb. What a cool move. You need long arms or something to make this reach. A seriously committing climb. Excellent photo opp. Lead this climb, make the committment, enjoy the finish.
I struggled with rating this climb, because it's all about pulling the roof, which is akin to a V3 boulder move. Otherwise, it's 5.8 before and 5.9 after the roof.Should you prefer to toprope, the anchors are easy to reach when you rap down from Hollow Man.
I talked to a friend of the FA, (didn't get his name though.) and he informed me that he rated it as a 5.11b. Also, he pointed out that if you hang right at the roof, it is 5.10'ish. To get the 5.11b rating, tackle the deepest part of the roof on the left. Enjoy.
I stayed right on this route, today, and it seemed a lot easier. I would say, if you stayed right it is probably in the 5.10a range.
By john gilchrist From: sLC, utah Nov 3, 2005 rating: 5.10d
long reach but i was able to get it with ease at 5'6" with some creative foot work
By glen kaplan From: Salt Lake City, UT Oct 4, 2006 rating: 5.10b/c
my take is that if you use the rock to the right (Hollow Man) at all, this route is no more than ez 5.10...
yes, however, if you tackle the roof without stemming or standing on the rock to the right, it is sig. harder...probably in that ez 5.11 range for that one sequence lunge (you can just jump though)...
but...you have to really make sure (i.e. contrive) not to step over there for the harder grade...
definitely a squeeze since you would be interfering with a climber leading Hollow Man and it seems very natural to just stand on that ledge under the roof...but oh well, fun nonetheless
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT May 7, 2007 rating: 5.11a
We met the FA guys over here the other day. His names Tim something. Anyway, look for the tick mark for the left hand coming out of the roof. I think he said 11b or c was what he graded it.
Met the guy who put up the route the other day, his name was Tim. After watching several people attempting and failing the roof way to get to the top, myself included, he comes along and makes it look like nothing. Good moves though, memorized them so I can say I climb 11.b. :)
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT May 7, 2007 rating: 5.11a
By TP in SLC From: Cottonwood Heights, UT Jul 29, 2007
I agree w/Tea. Too many poppin up.
By glen kaplan From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 29, 2007 rating: 5.10b/c
yeah, squeezeplays aren't all that but... i really don't have a problem with this route because of the area as a whole (and i just put another route around the corner so...)
it is definitely a squeeze job because there really isn't room for two people to climb at the same time (or three for that matter--one on FF, one on WB, and one on HM)...they would be unsafe and falling on each other or at least in eachother's way when lowering...
but...
flip flop approach, generally sport climbs with anchors, high traffic, etc.
IMO: this route doesn't cause enough interference or detract from the crag experience here...
North and West Faces
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