This is the short (3 bolt) problem on the west face, just past the pine tree. It protects well, and is a pump. On my first ascent, I almost couldn't open the draws at the top for the chains. Stay out of the crack to the right, and expect rock-solid forearms when you are done.
Protection
2 bolts atop, and 3 draws on the lead. A 5.4 scramble up the left-facing corner to the left will get you atop for the top-rope. But.... go for the lead, it is well worth it, and because of the nature of the rock, a fall is fun.
Just went up and did it again today. Be aware that the last left handhold, before the ledge is suspect. It seemed solid enough to me, but it is definitely loose.
I would have a hard time calling that a 5.11 I would say the rating is around a 10c. Better rated as a boulder problem at V1. However rated though it is a enjoyable little problem to get on.
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT Jun 13, 2007 rating: 5.10b/c
For those who think this is rated harder than it is, there are a bunch of chalk marks in the crack off to the right of the bolt line. If you use either the crack or the rock face to the right this climb is more like an 8.
If you do the sit start and climb the bolt line (as if you were leading) and stay out of the crack it definitely feels like 5.11 moves. Sure its short, but if you had a sustained 5.9 with this section, it would definitely be rated an 11.
By john richards From: salt lake city UT Apr 21, 2008 rating: 5.10c
I have a hard time calling this more than a 10c. dont get me wrong though FUN FUN FUN. skip the first bolt. If you fall above it your gonna hit the deck anyway.
North and West Faces
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