This climb is just right of the obvious "Coral Bells Arete". It climbs the north overhanging face. The roofs will tax you, but it is not as hard as it looks. My **** rating may be influenced by the fact that this was my 1st 5.10 and an onsight.
Protection
2 chains for the top. 7 draws for the climb. 1st bolt is kind of high and awkward. 1 runner.
Seven bolts long, this fantastic route has a little of everything. A bouldery beginning, some balance moves, laybacking off flakes, and a burly roof pull below the anchors. One hint: find the well-chalked undercling to unlock the roof sequence.
The last bolt is awkward...if you look a few feet down and right from it you will see a bolt that has been chopped/sheared. This may have been the original (and much more logical) clip.
By Jared Hargrave From: Salt Lake City, UT. Jun 26, 2007
Rather than use a runner on bolt 5, I simply unclipped it after clipping bolt 6 to avoid rope drag. The quickdraw was easy to reach with my left hand after clipping into bolt 6. Also felt that the roof was easier than the roof on Coral Bells Arete. Crazy?
By john richards From: salt lake city UT Apr 21, 2008 rating: 5.10a
For a steady 5.10 climber this climb will seem pretty easy.
Great route! Some nice stemmy movements down below with great high steps. Balancy moves with side pulls that could go all the wrong ways without the right pivots. Lee Gitlin gave a nice bit of beta on this with that undercling being the key to unlock the roof, allowing the feet to get up high so you can clear it. The only downside to this route is it seems too short once you clear the roof. I wanted MORE!
By Taylor Ogden From: Salt Lake City, Utah Aug 17, 2009
Great climb, pulling the upper roof is definitely the crux. Go big, you're well protected!