This climbs an arete on the east face. This arete is obvious from the fork. This is a great climb that protects well. The crux is definitely the 1st bolt. Clipped high it is a safe overhang to fall on. The smooth face above is tricky but not too hard. The flake gives you a nice natural place to protect. My first ascent, I zipped right past the flake, jonesing on the chains. Aretes always add a degree of mental difficulty to me and this was no exception.
Protection
2 chains atop for anchors and 3 draws. Bring medium nuts or a cam for the flake before the chains. I documented this as a trad route but it could be a sport route with a long runout at the end.
Coral Bells is a short, but interesting route. The first bolt is clipped easily enough, but pulling past it requires a tricky, left heel-hook sequence. The route then becomes a classic BCC smedging effort. A flake on the east face after bolt 3 will protect with any number of smaller cams, after which the climbing is much easier. Overall, this is an unusually technical, rewarding climb.
a high step is also available to move past the first bolt.
By Shaun Greene From: www.UtahShaun.com Aug 12, 2006
Good climb. A little funky getting to that second bolt. There are a plethora of approaches used to pass it. I used a weird side pull on the north side of the arete. My partner just reached way up there and grabbed a high hold on the arete. Either way, its a mighty fine climb. Suggest backing up first bolt with blue metolius.
The three bolts on this route have been yanked and replaced by 100% Grade A Beef courtesy of Mike White's help and ASCA. They were all spinners....but they were hard to get out....testimony to the longevity of old 20 year old bolts in BCC. At least they are confidence inspiring and no need for backing up the first one as previously mentioned. Thanks again for the spontaneous rally, Mike!
Did this climb tonight and there are 4 more bolts that continue up the face/arette. More of the same 5.8-5.9 climbing. Makes it a little more interesting and not so short for beginners.
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Jun 23, 2008
did this route free solo today, pretty intense...i choose to reach around the arete for the juggy right then work my feet up as high as i can and lunge for the small but extremely positive ledge below the second bolt, pretty smooth after that. the run-out section after the third bolt goes well if you use the arete properly, moral bells extension is all pretty positive and plenty well protected, 5.8ish but adds length to an already fun climb!
By Taylor Ogden From: Salt Lake City, Utah Aug 17, 2009
The first move is pretty beefy, getting over that roof. I hooked a heel on the right side, then pulled up to the chalked up hold near the second bolt. My partner found a high toe jib that suited him well.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
