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Teflon Technique 

5.9+ R

   

FA: Merill Bitter, et al, 1989
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 289 page views

Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003


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BETA PHOTO: 1) Teflon Technique 2) Touch of Teflon 3) Dai...


Description 

This is one nice climb, only 2 stars due to its shortness. It is on the east face of Challenge Buttress, and it climbs a smooth bulging face with 1 bolt on it. It climbs the left of this face, not utilizing the bolt. It is smooth with a couple of horizontal cracks and a nice hole to hook your hands on. This climb will always draw me back year after year, along with it's neighbor Touch of Teflon.


Protection 

2 chains atop the climb. As for the climb small tcu's would help and small nuts.



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The Teflons w/o lines

BETA PHOTO: The Teflons w/o lines


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By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Jun 16, 2006
rating: 5.10c R

I'm not clear on the exact location of this route, but it seems to start right under a bush growing out of the face and then moves up and right along a ledge to the chains. The 5.9 climbing was very short, and there it seemed easy enough to protect. The ledge above was easy. We set up a TR and climbed to the left of Touch of Teflon and it was really fun and probably more difficult. There is a hidden undercling next to a finger-sized dimple that distinguish this route. We smeared across the face on an arm traverse and mantled up to the thin face above. Way fun!