Dream Slate 

#2 camalot works wonderfully. Also, watch the loose stuff. Most of the loose stuff seems wobbly only, not full on loose, but...

This face requires a lot of technique. Not very pumpy, not much cranking. Some body position needed to make use of side pulls. Bail left to the 5.8 arete if you get stumped on the last two bolts. The belay area is frightening -- a 5.2 slab where a misstep will cause you to tumble into the talus field. We belayed clipped in to the tree just east of the bolt line.

Best 10a in the canyon, just my opinion though.....

Dream Slate is a good climb, worth the short hike up a boulderfield. In my book, all that keeps it from being a 3-star is some loose/wobbly rock, particularly if you are left of centerline (looking up). Otherwise, the route is sustained, with an interesting sequence over a flake. Bring your camalot to protect at the flake, but avoid placing at the right side of the flake (again, looking up), since the rock is cracked and hollow sounding there. A nice, airy exposed finish completes a relatively long route.

Did this one again today, and I feel it deserves mentioning to stay off that edge (arete) at the end of the route. The climb definitely is funner, more sustained, and 5.10a, on that face. Naturally, people go left as that is easier, but that avoids the crux.

Still Love this climb.

Always a great climb, Must do for Limestone lovers.

Did this one twice today, once going left and once staying right. The right path at the top is much more fun, with two really great moves. The left path is just easy climbing and skipping the last bolt to get the chains, but no fun.

What's an "edging" climb? Not familiar with this term. (obviously)slabby,...crimpy?

Is there a better 10a in BCC? Not pumpy just thin and technical. Instead of placing the cam just make one more move. This section is the easiest part of the climb and has the best holds. I placed it my first time only to ask myself why as soon as I made the next easy move to the bolt...

Didn't see the loose rock. Maybe it is off to the right though.

Very fun climb..I went too far left to avoid a hard move that i couldn't quite get...i was bummed because it is too hard to get back over....work through the moves and don't go left

Great limestone face climbing toward top. Also, very nice exposure and view. #1 cam for flake.

Wonderful polished limestone with superb side pulls. Definitely a balance-y climb with a superb view of Outside Corner. Some loose rock though not quite falling out (just a few holds that shake disturbingly and encourage a second choice. Belay isn't great but anchoring would definitely keep you safe and sane.

I believe the rock type is quartzite, not limestone.

wonderful polished limestone. . .

it must be something really wonderful to sit between two quartzite routes, at a quartzite crag, in a primarily quartzite canyon.

i did hear the limestone face climbing at the top is second to none.