Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Narcolepsy Area
Show routes:
Select route...
Anuresis 
Chimney Sweep 
Don't Jump Back Crack 
Dream Slate 
Dreamscape 
Ethiopian Kid 
Involuntary Release 
Mr. Sandman 
Narcolepsy 
Narcosis 
Suture Fancy 
Turn of the sentry 
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder 

Narcolepsy 

5.8 R

   

FA: Bret and Judy Ruckman 1985
Type: Trad, Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 625 page views

Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (20)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Narcolepsy


Description 

This is the right bolt line on the East Face. It stays near the arete, possibly utilizing it. Another fun edgy climb with mostly legs and a little hands.


Protection 

2 bolts for the anchors, that are on the face now, instead of over the top. 2-3 draws for bolts on the way up. Contingent upon, Some guy chopping bolts cause he feels it neccesary. If the bolt is chopped a #6 wall nut works acceptable in a horizontal hole. Be careful.



Add Photo Photos of Narcolepsy
Narcolepsy is on the right

BETA PHOTO: Narcolepsy is on the right

Just another day on Narcolepsy ZZZZzzzz

Just another day on Narcolepsy ZZZZzzzz

Making the clip.

Making the clip.

I am so proud of her (my wife).

I am so proud of her (my wife).

The "crafty" nut placement. Crafty or not, I still didn't want to fall on it.

The "crafty" nut placement. Crafty or not, I still...


Add Comment Comments on Narcolepsy
Show which comments
By Mark Michaels
From: Midvale, UT
Jul 5, 2004

Only 2 bolts. Don't fall.

By Lee Gitlin
Sep 24, 2004
rating: 5.8

The climb itself isn't bad, some interesting movement and use of the arete/edges. But recommending that anyone lead this route is to reserve a spot in hell. Two bolts over sixty feet? Do yourself a favor: walk around the east side of the wall and toprope.

By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Jul 30, 2005

Yellow Metolius or was it orange. Shoot, Blue DMM works in between the two bolts.

By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Jul 31, 2005

ORANGE

By D Argyle
From: Farmington, Utah
Jan 18, 2006

A #10 stopper will also work.

By Ryan Peterson
From: North Salt Lake, Utah
Jul 10, 2007

Possible to get a gray (blue?) TCU in before the first bolt, and an Orange in where the second was. At least if you're a paranoid leader like I am.