This is a steep overhanging route that starts with the rightmost bolt. It then angles left to the left arete and finishes up on the south face. This climb utilized sidepulls and laybacks. Footwork is very important. A very pumpy climb that I felt like I was doing on my side.
The route starts climbing to the shelf with guano on it right of the lower 2 bolts. It clips the bolt off the guano ledge, and then the bolt at the 10 'o clock position. The third bolt is just right of the arete and the fourth is on the south face. All the routes on this wall share either one bolt or more, so it is kind of confusing.
Protection
2 bolts atop and 4 draws for the climb. Bring medium runners for the anchors as they are placed poorly. Also, careful with a top-rope, as the rope can get wedged into a crack rather easily. Then you might get hung up on the wall. I used a large hex to protect the initial moves.
I changed the rating to 5.10d as I feel that is more accurate. The book says 5.10a, but every time I do this I doube that rating. If this is a 5.10a, it is the hardest 10a in the Wasatch.
By Adam Fisher From: sandy, utah Apr 30, 2007 rating: 5.10d
Not the greatest climb in the world, but fun none the less. Worth climbing for sure. Watch for rope Snag on 2nd or TR.
The Speed Trap
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