BETA PHOTO: Unknown climber on 6. Italian Arete (5.6) and the ...
Description
Nice climb follows the arete left of Entre Nous to the anchors above the main ledge. The second pitch continues up and to the right but is not quite as excellent.
Protection
P1: Seven bolts to a two bolt anchor. Shares anchors with Entre Nous which are past the ledge to the right. On a crowded day this could spell H-A-S-S-L-E; consider climbing it as one pitch.
This is a nice climb for fledgling leaders (like me). Bomber hand and foot holds, especially around the bolts, instill confidence. Use the Tyrolean traverse to cross Big Cottonwood Creek. This will take you to the sport cave. A 100 yard walk around to the right of the cave puts you in front of the slips.
Lowering from the anchors will tend to swing you into the inside corner, left of the route as you look up. Have your belayer be careful and lower slowly, as this corner is heinous and jagged.
Fun route. cruiser climb on big holds and positive edges, with interesting moves. The crack/corner to the left is a fun easy 5.5 trad climb with fun layback moves.
If setting this climb up for a toprope, I'd suggest keeping the rope clipped into a draw at the uppermost bolt, to prevent the climber from swinging into the inside corner. When taking some beginning climbers up there for the first time, it seemed to work well enough, we just had them climb up to the draw.
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Nov 13, 2007
Salt Lake Slips
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