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Glass Ocean and Environs
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Glass Ocean 

5.8

   

FA: Pat Contor, Gary Taylor, 1988
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 110 feet
Views: 1,279 page views

Submitted By: Mason on Jun 1, 2002


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Edging it out at the start of Glass Ocean


Description 

This route is fantastic every time! One of the best 5.8's in BCC!!

There is a ledge about 25 feet up from the start. On the descent it is important to stop on this ledge and walk off around the side. You can NOT lower all the way back down with a 60 meter rope!!! So be careful.

Stuart & Ruckman's Wasatch Climbing Guide simply describes this climb as "Smooth as glass, vast as the ocean. The upper face is beautiful and continuous."

There are some excellent puzzles to solve on the way up, and it feels very, very exposed.

Some of the bolts feel pretty far apart as a result of the exposure.


Protection 

9 bolts to the anchors. Various sized quickdraws and even a couple of runners useful as the route wanders a bit and rope drag can be bad.

It would be possible to deck between the second and third bolts (but not likely, as it is easy climbing around to the shelf), and also between the third and fourth bolts (because you are basically starting over again from the shelf, and could fall back down to it). This warning is not being issued as a scare tactic, but it should be issued because the possibility exists.



Add Photo Photos of Glass Ocean
Chris halfway up Glass Ocean.

Chris halfway up Glass Ocean.

Another chilly day at Glass Ocean.

Another chilly day at Glass Ocean.


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By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
May 30, 2004
rating: 5.9-

Gear Alert

One of the bolts was a spinner (#5 or #6), also, the anchor consists of 2 bolts, neither looked great, and a flake. One of the anchor bolts was definitely bent. Nice candidate for a rebolt.

By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Jun 4, 2004
rating: 5.9-

Agreed, about the space between bolts. Bolt 4 is "high" off the ledge. Although, the climbing is easy to get to Bolt 4, if you slip it will create an ankle injury possibility. Also, after clipping bolt 7, you can't see bolt 8, and bolt 9 looks really far off. Don't panic, for as soon as you approach bolt 8, it will become apparent.

By Eric Jacobsen
Jul 17, 2004
Gear Alert

A discussion about rebolting the top anchors to this route can be found here:

http://www.climbingsaltlake.com/resources/features/bolt_repl>>>>>

By triznuty
From: Murray, UT
Oct 9, 2005
rating: 5.8

CLASSIC!!!My favorite at the grade. This climb alone is worth the hike...

By Ryan Peterson
From: Logan, Utah
Jun 16, 2007

8th bolt seemed to be missing, so there was a pretty long run-out between 7 and 9. Anchors at the top were pretty at least.

By cdec
From: slc, ut
Sep 28, 2007

We climbed this today and the 8th bolt is there, can't see it from 7 but it's there. 7 to 9 would indeed be run out.

By Christian Knight
From: Provo, UT
May 12, 2008

What a dreamy face! Fantastic moves on amazing rock.

By Robert MacKinnon
Jun 11, 2008
rating: 5.9-

A 70m rope easily gets you back to the base. This also allows you to TR Left Tributary (5.10d) and Right Tributary (5.11a).

By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Jun 28, 2008
rating: 5.8+

ditto the 70 meter. Had enough rope to feel comfortable.

It should be mentioned that the glass ocean traverses right on the ledge to the next bolt line. If you continue straight up you will be on Northwest Passage.