BETA PHOTO: Overview of main, east-facing Slips wall.
Description
This is the most difficult route on the east face of the slips (there are some .10's around the corner). Very nice midsection with nice smooth surface and a thin crack to get your fingers into. Then up to the juggy top section that feels steeper than it really is. Lots to grab up there.
Once you reach the top there is a ledge to stand on while fixing the anchors, so even if this climb comes at the end of the day (after you've done all four on this wall) you can still wear yourself out going up and not worry about being exhausted when you get there.
The guy in the pic is on Rolling The Bones, 2 climbs over.
This is the hardest climb on the face right of Italian Arete. Very crimpy hands. Take note of the footholds on the way up, because they are hard to see once you've climbed above. The route is much easier after the 4th bolt. I would stick clip the first bolt.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Jun 2, 2004 rating: 5.8
Definitely didn't think this was 8+ - it is defintely an easier lead than Thieving Magpie because of the closely spaced bolts. Good route that is in the shade very early in the morning.
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT Aug 14, 2006 rating: 5.9-
there is a little metal tag on the belay anchors that says 5.9 on this climb...
It is easy to hang a toprope here by first climbing Italian Arete, then traversing a few feet to lookers right on the huge ledge. Crimpy face climbing on this route, with some sequencing required to gain the best stances for clipping. A good place to learn to trust that sticky rubber!
This is a very fun climb. Definitely use those feet and look for all the holds. I felt it was a bit hard for a 5.8, but I also felt that theiving magpie was a bit harder than a 5.7. Regardless, they are all very fun routes and an excellent place for your first lead or just chillin out on some easier stuff.
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