This route starts towards the right (eastern) end of the first section of the lower S-Curves wall. It is directly below a smaller roof about 100 feet to the right of the giant roof.
The first two bolts take you over a funky roof that seems much harder than the 5.9+ given in Ruckman's book. The holds were there, but we were a bit sketched out until we got a top-rope on it. It is possible to climb left or right around the roof, but this would definitely be off-route and not quite as fun.
After the crux, the climbing is relatively straight-forward, though many of the obvious looking holds seem to be pointing down. The route moves up to the right and finishes to the right of the large roof directly above your belayer. Once you get to the top, you'll have a fine view up and down the canyon.
Protection
Six bolts to a double chain anchor. The hangers look a bit old and most of them spin, but it didn't really bother us. The chains are solid.
I thought it kind of sucked at first as well...and I've heard that from others as well, but the more we did it, the more compelling it was. I still haven't led it, but would like to give it another go. It's fun in a scary way. I'd probably even rate it harder than 5.10a but thought I might be doing something wrong since Ruckman only gives it 5.9+.
I did this route recently. The first two bolt placements really could have been a little better thought out since they create an issue with rope drag over the lip of the small roof past the second bolt. Even though I did it after I ran up Madison Avenue, right next to it, it still only felt like stiff 5.9 climbing. It was an enjoyable route all the same. For the bold leader, skip the first bolt and clip the second one with a three foot runner to eliminate rope drag or damage to your rope. Merrill Bitter told me that he'd recently replaced the anchors to make them a little better for the descent, but they are a long way out from the last bolt so beware.
The route has to be .10a, if for nothing more than the nature of the roof pull which is much tougher that the roof at Chorus line. Also, there are some scary times on lead in the 2nd half of the climb, not many positive holds at all through there. If this rating is at your level, I would absolutely advise getting the crux "dialed" on toprope before attempting a lead.
By D Argyle From: Salt Lake City, Utah Jan 18, 2006 rating: 5.9+
9+ imo. But I suppose I could attribute that to my ape-like arm span and featherweight classification.
I really enjoyed this route. Pulling the roof is fun (tough to clip that second bolt though) and the climbing above is varied and technical. It's pretty run out after the 3rd bolt, which still spins.
found out that this route is quite an intimidating route. I really enjoyed pulling the roof only to find that the route stays varied throughout. pretty hairy threw bolts 3-4. nasty fall potential but well worth doing
By Jonathan Scoville From: Salt Lake City, UT Sep 23, 2009 rating: 5.10a
One of the scariest onsight leads I have done. I didn't like the old rusty spinners, so I did my best to not fall. The roof section is probably a little easier if you are tall. The upper section is challenging around the 4th bolt or so - you kind of have to go out on a limb and trust your feet. The exposure gets the blood flowing. I'd give this climb two stars if the bolts were in better condition.
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