BETA PHOTO: Middle section of Dogwood Crag showing #7 Mo...
Description
This sport route (6 bolts _ chains) would make a really nice training climb. The first 60' is face climbing on a multitude of good holds, which leads to a small roof which is just enough to get you pumping. Note that the climb starts from a large ledge ~15' up from the bank of the stream. So when rapping down, stop at the ledge!
Beta: There is supposedly a scramble somewhere at the midpoint of Dogwood (see the first photo in this section - the left-slanting shrub-covered diagonal?) - but we found it a little too overgrown to navigate safely. We rapped down from the chains on a 60m rope.
Protection
This route is bolted, with chains at the top. There are plenty of features at the top to set up a belay station with cams and nuts (we found the scramble a bit dicey and decided to just climb up and out).
I climbed this route last night, and I thought it ruled! We rappelled down from the chains as our approach route and then took everything back out the top and walked off.
Big jugs and some tricky leverage moves make the lower section challenging and very enjoyable. The roof section toward the top was much easier the first time, without a backpack full of gear :). I recommend this climb to anyone. The person I was with has only been out twice, but he maneuvered the roof after only three tries.
There seem to be several stray bolts close to this route, or at least they weren't in my latest guide book. Anyone know if there are some routes in progress, or if there are other named/rated sport routes that are climbed from the same ledge?
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Jun 14, 2004 rating: 5.9
Smooth, very smooth rock down low. Fun roof up high. The anchors are a bit far over the top creating a lot of drag for the top-rope. If desired, bring longer runners to clip into the anchors that would allow the rope to be over the edge and rub less.
This climb is missing a bolt. I believe it is the fifth bolt that is without a hanger so there is a groundfall runout over some easy ground to the roof. Though it is easy in this section... it would result in serious injury to fall here. If you can't hold it together mentally, you might want to shy away from this till the hanger is replaced. Also... there are hangers without chains at the top so prepare to belay from above and walk off.
By Rebecca Airmet From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 31, 2006 rating: 5.9
There are now chains on the bolts at the top of this climb. However, I believe that not one, but two, bolts are missing. The first three are in place, and then bolts four and five appear to be chopped, leaving it run out to the sixth bolt at the roof.
When all the bolts were there, this made a great lead climb for those just into the grade - potential falls after the first bolt are very clean and it's a fun, long route, relatively sustained in places, but dang good rests when you really need 'em.
In my oppinion one of the best at dogwood and one of my favorites. The lead is very run out. I couldn't find good trad placements to protect the run out. I'm willing to help someone replace the missing bolts. Bring slings for the top rope.
By Ryan Peterson From: North Salt Lake, Utah Jun 23, 2007
Climbed this today and loved it, didn't feel like a 5.9 until the second roof.
Fourth and fifth bolts are still missing though, if you fall before that final roof you'll probably hit the ground. You can go right and clip the two bolts on the other route with long runners, but I chose to just go left and climb, it was an easy section, but scared the Hell out of me when I was perched on the ledge trying to clip that last bolt.
Much easier to just rappel from the chains rather than walk all the way around and then scramble up to the ledge.
Oh, and there are plenty of loose rocks, including ones that would seem perfect to help you over that second roof.
Dogwood Crag
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