BETA PHOTO: Overhanging south face of the Slips. Rope is on W...
Description
A short route but very fun. The wall is very overhanging and looks super hard at first, but then you realize that there are great holds all the way up. Crux is clipping the second bolt and then pulling over the roof towards the third.
This climb is on the south-facing overhung wall down and to the left of the main Slips wall. They are shaded by trees and immediately adjacent to the river. If you're traversing across the river on the tyrolean, look to the left.Nice flat belay area.
I agree that the crux is pulling the roof. But I think that move is between the 3rd and 4th bolt? A fall here means a long whipper into space. The route is significantly easier above the roof (5.6-5.7 range). Have fun!
One of my favorite climbs in BCC. I would say the crux is between the second and third bolt. Once you clip the third bolt, its just a matter of pulling on some big holds.
By Bobby Hanson From: Salt Lake City, UT Dec 6, 2004 rating: 5.10a
Beware that the very good jug below the third bolt is loosening!
By Rebecca Airmet From: Salt Lake City, UT Aug 14, 2006 rating: 5.10a/b
A great climb! If you're top-roping it, consider clipping the third/second bolt on rappel to avoid too much swing away from the route if you pop off.
And not to admit to being a wimp, but... you can set a top rope on the climb without being a .10a climber. After clipping the second bolt, standing on the last big ledge below the roof, you can step to your right on to a ledge, climb the 5.7 slab above, skip the third bolt and clip the fourth, and continue to the chains. This probably goes at about 5.9, but the "runout" part is easier.
I thought this was easy as anything on the other side of the wall. Awkward bolting positions though, bring a few long runners
Can't say it felt harder than a 5.8
By S. Gileadi From: Salt Lake City Jul 2, 2007 rating: 5.10a
Judging by the amount of chalk on on the 'wimpy way' off to the right, quite a few people are skipping the crux and doing it that way. I admit to trying it once just to see how it was, conclusion: don't bother unless the unlikely event happens that you're unable to pull the roof and don't want to lose a quickdraw. Which should give you all the more reason to go for it and pull that roof!
Otherwise, a short but enjoyable .10a with a couple awkward moves to get to the crux. Didn't feel like there was any need for runners...
Can't say I agree with a 5.8 rating, it certainly feels harder than that, though everything through the roof is extremely positive, the trick is staying on the face and not cheating the corner. This and Salem's Lot are a good quick outing when the water is low. PLus, there are not too many more pleasant settings on a hot summer day.
By john richards From: salt lake city UT Apr 21, 2008 rating: 5.10a
easy solid climb for new leaders. The roof is a head game. Feet and hands are there.
This is a fun route to start leading over a roof. The holds are there and pretty big if you get your feet in the right spot. One caution if lowering or repelling off, if you attempt to stay to the right until lowering past the roof, you will swing a great deal and your rope will be dragged over a fairly nasty edge. Oh and watch for the tree just below the chains.
Salt Lake Slips
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