Dan in the obligatory butt shot. Notice the color...
Description
This route is found on the East side of Storm Mountain Island (along the river across from the parking lot). The route begins at a right facing dihedral that is accessed by crossing the bridge, turning left (south), following the trail along the river past some tables, and finally up a 25' scramble to the corner (very short). The first pitch proceeds directly up the corner for 35' to bolted belay off to the left on a nice ledge. Next pitch can either follow up the deteriorating corner (a little dirty) or up the low angle face protected by sequential small crack systems. Climb at least 55' to a funky belay on ledge to the left, or continue up another 15' to a more secure belay in the bushes. Walk off the east side and then curve around north and then back into the picnic area.
Protection
Take a simple rack of medium to small cams, maybe a #2 camalot at the biggest. Full set of stoppers will be beneficial. Decent amount of slings and all that jazz.
My first trad lead, I believe. Fun route, well worth stopping for even if it is only a 5.5.
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT Aug 13, 2006 rating: 5.5
I second the notion that it takes nuts better than cams, I think I used maybe two #1's just for practice. This was my second trad lead and it does have bolted anchors which I don't think the wasatch guide book states.
By Walt Haas From: Salt Lake City, UT Mar 28, 2007
I believe that the anchor chains at the top are newer than the guide book.
The route description doesn't mention it, but since the upper pitch is much dirtier and less fun than the lower pitch, a more rewarding way to finish is to walk from the chains at the top of the first pitch of Layback Crack south along a wide ledge to the base of Nice Little Crack and Storm Mountain Stupor, either of which is a much more enjoyable second pitch.
By Ryan Peterson From: North Salt Lake, Utah Jul 14, 2007
This was my first all-gear climb, plenty of spots for gear and resting, and quite fun.
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT May 18, 2008 rating: 5.5
Walts super on... Do the traverse around from the belay spot on pitch 1. Takes good gear as well if your second is scared. Set up an anchor on the solo climbing bolts/rap bolts. Then do nice little crack or storm mountain stupor.
We did this to avoid the beginning hike over to the slips. Nice alternative.
There are a couple of tough-to-spot bolt w/ hangers (no chains - bring some webbing and a rap ring) at the very top of the 'island' to rap down (a bit to the right of the last pitch if I recall...goes through bushes though).
I thought this was an excellent climb, and would recommend both pitches for beginning trad climbers. The second pitch was not difficult, but still interesting and very worth the time and effort. At the start of the second pitch I tried to go right, but did not find good pro in the dihedral. I backtracked and climbed straight up from the belay for 10-15 feet before returning to the dihedral. Taking this approach has the added benefit of limiting rope drag. At the top of the second pitch, I climbed past the chains and set up a belay using the bush and a few pieces of pro. Walked off. Cams above BD #2 not needed.
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