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Storm Mountain Island
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Goodro's Wall 

5.10c

   

FA: Harold Goodro ~1949
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 3,241 page views

Submitted By: Matt Hepp on Sep 22, 2001


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The climber is Chad Mcardle....photographer....Kor...


Description 

Arguably the first 5.10 in North America. Fun route, good gear, good jams, pumpy. Feeling burly cause you sent it? Some cowboy did the same back in the 40's.


Protection 

Standard rack of nuts and cams up to 2". TCUs useful.



Photos of Goodro's Wall Slideshow Add Photo
5. Goodro's Wall (5.10c) at Storm Mtn Island

BETA PHOTO: 5. Goodro's Wall (5.10c) at Storm Mtn Island

Craig making Goodro's look easy.

Craig making Goodro's look easy.

1st time I climbed this (2002) I struggled cause I fought the jams. Not this time. Love those jams.<br />

1st time I climbed this (2002) I struggled cause I...

Leading Goodro's

Leading Goodro's

Another pic of leading Goodro's

Another pic of leading Goodro's

One more pic of Goodro's

One more pic of Goodro's

Talia pumpin on goodro's

Talia pumpin on goodro's

Right about the crux moves with thin feet

Right about the crux moves with thin feet

Goodro's from the top of Epic Wall.  Must be hot out, look at all that chalk!

Goodro's from the top of Epic Wall. Must be hot o...

Goodro's Wall. Great climb.

Goodro's Wall. Great climb.

First crux for me - one of my favorite climbs of all time :)

First crux for me - one of my favorite climbs of a...

King doing some crack moves.  Man that face is slick!

King doing some crack moves. Man that face is sli...

Beautiful fall conditions on Goodro's and Six Pence.

Beautiful fall conditions on Goodro's and Six Penc...

(13 June 2009) Brandon Caldwell Over the little roof onto the slab.

(13 June 2009) Brandon Caldwell Over the little ro...


Comments on Goodro's Wall Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 13, 2009
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 20, 2001

Climbed this about 5 or 6 months ago. It was a great climb. The surface is quite slick making smears a little dicey. About three quarters of the way up is a bird's nest. Pretty cool to look at the little fellas (they just hatched when we were there). Of course fighting off the mother bird made the climb more thrilling. Definitely worth it!!

-Braden A. Salt Lake City, UT

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 23, 2002

Actually, Harold Goodro was no cowboy. He was an engineer. In fact Harold was my first climbing instructor way back in 1973 when I was a grad student at U of U. Harold has first ascents all over the place including an important variation on the N Face of the Grand. However, his teaching style was : here's the stuff, now go for it. He had us practice leader falls at Storm Mountain by placing a single pin about 30 feet off the ground, having us climb about 10 feet above it and jumping off. What the hell did we know? I still have scars on my leg from slamming into the rock below the pin. After 28 years of climbing I still think that was the only leader fall I've been hurt on.

Gary Stetler Boulder CO

By Nathan Fisher
Apr 14, 2004
rating: 5.10c

2 bolts for the anchors, also I believe 1 piton at the base of the roof.

By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 24, 2004

There is one piton at the base of the roof, and another a short ways above on the face slightly to the right of the main crack. Neither one is probably worth clipping - bomber gear right near both.

By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 8, 2004

Awesome... climb this route.

By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.10c

favorite crack in the whole canyon.
my first trad lead

By Rob C.
Aug 4, 2006

This hard is climb!

By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
May 13, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c

this is a must climb. Awesome jams and a good pump fest to the anchors. Loved it! Pretty easily TR'd also.

By Nick Faust
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 9, 2007

Watch out for the birds and the bees. Birds nest is still there, about 3/4 of the way up. Bees were swarming up by the anchors. Other than that.... an awesome climb.

By Josh Heiss
Aug 11, 2008

Easily the funnest climb in the canyon. Pumpy, crack climbing goodness at its finest.

By Rachelle J. Ross
Jun 29, 2009

Wow what a climb. While I had to hang one point and let my right arm regain sensation the mother bird bailed out her nest, right out between my legs. Scared the crap outta me, but it's a great story! And the face on this is slicker than you can even believe. Great crack with superb jams easily top roped for chickens like me. A classic climb.

By Brandon Caldwell
Aug 13, 2009
rating: 5.10c

Climbed Goodro's wall today. This crack reminds me that it has been decades since I was 19!

Always a beautiful climb. I First climbed Goodro's Wall back in the late 80's early 90's. Not as popular back then. A few days without rain and the crack can really get slick. The birds nest about halfway up is now abandoned (for the rest of this year at least). Best crack cilmb in the canyon IMHO.

By Moonfri
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.10c

Ticked this one finally today. Got me good and pumped. A fine climb!