The climber is Chad Mcardle....photographer....Kor...
Description
Arguably the first 5.10 in North America. Fun route, good gear, good jams, pumpy. Feeling burly cause you sent it? Some cowboy did the same back in the 40's.
Protection
Standard rack of nuts and cams up to 2". TCUs useful.
Climbed this about 5 or 6 months ago. It was a great climb. The surface is quite slick making smears a little dicey. About three quarters of the way up is a bird's nest. Pretty cool to look at the little fellas (they just hatched when we were there). Of course fighting off the mother bird made the climb more thrilling. Definitely worth it!!
Actually, Harold Goodro was no cowboy. He was an engineer. In fact Harold was my first climbing instructor way back in 1973 when I was a grad student at U of U. Harold has first ascents all over the place including an important variation on the N Face of the Grand. However, his teaching style was : here's the stuff, now go for it. He had us practice leader falls at Storm Mountain by placing a single pin about 30 feet off the ground, having us climb about 10 feet above it and jumping off. What the hell did we know? I still have scars on my leg from slamming into the rock below the pin. After 28 years of climbing I still think that was the only leader fall I've been hurt on.
Gary Stetler Boulder CO
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Apr 14, 2004 rating: 5.10c
2 bolts for the anchors, also I believe 1 piton at the base of the roof.
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT May 24, 2004
There is one piton at the base of the roof, and another a short ways above on the face slightly to the right of the main crack. Neither one is probably worth clipping - bomber gear right near both.
By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 8, 2004
Awesome... climb this route.
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 28, 2006 rating: 5.10c
favorite crack in the whole canyon. my first trad lead
Watch out for the birds and the bees. Birds nest is still there, about 3/4 of the way up. Bees were swarming up by the anchors. Other than that.... an awesome climb.