The climber is Chad Mcardle....photographer....Kor...
Description
Arguably the first 5.10 in North America. Fun route, good gear, good jams, pumpy. Feeling burly cause you sent it? Some cowboy did the same back in the 40's.
Protection
Standard rack of nuts and cams up to 2". TCUs useful.
Climbed this about 5 or 6 months ago. It was a great climb. The surface is quite slick making smears a little dicey. About three quarters of the way up is a bird's nest. Pretty cool to look at the little fellas (they just hatched when we were there). Of course fighting off the mother bird made the climb more thrilling. Definitely worth it!!
Actually, Harold Goodro was no cowboy. He was an engineer. In fact Harold was my first climbing instructor way back in 1973 when I was a grad student at U of U. Harold has first ascents all over the place including an important variation on the N Face of the Grand. However, his teaching style was : here's the stuff, now go for it. He had us practice leader falls at Storm Mountain by placing a single pin about 30 feet off the ground, having us climb about 10 feet above it and jumping off. What the hell did we know? I still have scars on my leg from slamming into the rock below the pin. After 28 years of climbing I still think that was the only leader fall I've been hurt on.
2 bolts for the anchors, also I believe 1 piton at the base of the roof.
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT May 24, 2004
There is one piton at the base of the roof, and another a short ways above on the face slightly to the right of the main crack. Neither one is probably worth clipping - bomber gear right near both.
By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 8, 2004
Awesome... climb this route.
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 28, 2006 rating: 5.10c
favorite crack in the whole canyon. my first trad lead
Watch out for the birds and the bees. Birds nest is still there, about 3/4 of the way up. Bees were swarming up by the anchors. Other than that.... an awesome climb.
Wow what a climb. While I had to hang one point and let my right arm regain sensation the mother bird bailed out her nest, right out between my legs. Scared the crap outta me, but it's a great story! And the face on this is slicker than you can even believe. Great crack with superb jams easily top roped for chickens like me. A classic climb.
Climbed Goodro's wall today. This crack reminds me that it has been decades since I was 19!
Always a beautiful climb. I First climbed Goodro's Wall back in the late 80's early 90's. Not as popular back then. A few days without rain and the crack can really get slick. The birds nest about halfway up is now abandoned (for the rest of this year at least). Best crack cilmb in the canyon IMHO.