BETA PHOTO: Blue backpack marks where the trail comes off (Lef...
Description
This east facing wall is excellent for moderate traditional leaders. The wall is 500 feet high and has at least 13 routes on it, most of those in the 5.5 to 5.8 range. While only a 45 minute approach from the road in Big Cottonwood Canyon, you will find great seclusion. It feels remote and alpine. If you want multi pitch climbing and to escape the crowds, this wall is for you.
Getting There
Park at the pullout just after crossing the creek .2 miles up canyon from the Storm Mountain Picnic area. Hike up the canyon due north for 3/4 a mile. Look for the wall to your left. Avoid cutting up the slope too soon. Look for talus fields or for a semi-obvious trail. Leaving the main trail and heading up towards the wall is a bit of a pain. It is steep, and not very enjoyable, but remember... you are escaping the crowds!
Allow 45 minutes to an hour for the approach.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mule Hollow Wall:
Mule Hollow Wall Approach: About 100 feet left of Jam Crack Down Dirty Double Cross F.A: 6.23.05, Kris Pietryga and James Garrett Protection: QDs and small selection camalots Pitch #1: Start in a clearing at one of the bigger sections of the wall. Climb pockets and edges past 4 bolts to a two bolt belay. 5.7, 30m. Pitch #2: Continue straight up passing three bolts to a ledge and two bolt belay. Cool sculpted rock and pockets. 5.6, 30m...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
By Peter Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 13, 2004
The last part of the approach is a little tedious. I had a bit of trouble finding the side trail up to the wall, but eventually figured it out. Along the way, there are 2 cairns along the left side of the trail. Take the somewhat obscure spur at the second cairn. This is right before a stream crossing. Follow the trail up through talus and maybe some bushwhacking to get to the wall.
Once you get to the approach that leads up to the wall from the main trail it gets pretty steep for a while. When you hit the wall just skirt accross it to get to the climb you want. Climbs around Jam Crack require a little bit of a scram, not bad though.
Nathan's approach versus the Ruckman approach. Verdict=follow the candycane tree, unless you prefer loose talus. Nathan's route has more switchbacks, shade, and fewer steep spots.
Parking: N40 37.594' W111 44.541' alt:5810ft. Fork: N40 37.890' W111 44.816' alt:6350ft. Mule Hollow: N40 37.916' W111 45.046' alt:6950. I had trouble finding this my first time up and spent a lot of time and energy bush whacking and hiking up talus. Hope the following instructions help. The time estimates assume moderately fast hiking with packs. From the parking area, hike up the trail for 15 minutes, or 0.4 miles (don't go .75 miles like I did the first time). Look for a cairn marking the trail to the left. The stream bed will be on the right. The "candy cane" tree is no longer standing, but laying on the ground next to the trail. This trail cuts off before the route described in the Ruckman guide. Head up the steep trail. After roughly 10 minutes, look for the talus slope on the right and a small boulder in the middle of the trail. The trail forks here. If you go right you will hike through a little scree, then hit Mule Hollow wall after another 10 minutes of hiking. If you follow the left fork, you will be heading toward the Sea of Glass wall, and will hit it after another 10 minutes of hiking. Total time is 35-45 minutes.