This out-of-the-way climbing secret is usually empty, mostly because the approach is a real pain in the ass. The talus slope that you climb is steep, slippery and sucks out loud. But the payoff is worth the approach effort, I promise.
The rock is awesome, and shaded most of the time. Lots of variety in holds, from thin cracks to chicken heads. Most routes are sport, but some require additional trad assists. Most of the climbs rap, and are safe with a 60 meter rope, but there are a few walk offs, too.
This wall is high enough that occasionally there are mountain goats sharing the neighboring walls (how cool is that?). The view from there is really among of the best in BCC.
Getting There
Park across from Storm Mountain Picnic Area, about 2.7 miles up the canyon. Climb up the trail on the west side of the stream and walk about 1/4 mile. Then start looking for trails across the valley/stream to the Dead Snag Area. Head up the talus slope uphill from Dead Snag. Its quite a hump, and a real pain in - wait - I said that already...Keep going about another 200 yards or so. Glass Ocean is on the west side of the canyon facing northeast.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Glass Ocean and Environs:
High Dive is a really cool route. It can be done as one or two pitches, and has a couple of different approaches. One way to get up to it is to get on top of the large block on the left side of the Glass Ocean wall. Do this by either climbing Lord of Long Arms, Atlantis, or scrambling from the left. From here, the route climbs through some fixed pitons. The other approach, which I used, starts from the anchors on top of pitch 1 of the Northwe...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Another way to get there is to park at Stairs Gulch (just below Storm Mtn Picnic Area), and scramble up the bank on the west side of the stream. Then follow the trail past Challenge, Dead Snag and onward to Glass Ocean up the talus slope. This avoids the bushwhacking through the stream.
By icsteveoh From: salt lake city, UT Jun 28, 2008
great quite cool place in the shade around 1. bring your edging shoes.
Went up to Glass Ocean three days ago. The approach seems better than it used to, not nearly as bad as this description sounds. There is now a decent switchback that finishes to the right of the wall, avoiding what used to be talus near the top.
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