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Penitentiary Wall

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Cell Life 
Climb and Punishment 
Climbs and Misdemeanors 
Deception 
Jack the Ripper 
Jailbait 
Life Sentence 
Minimum Security 
Possession 
Rehabilitation 
S&M 
Speed is of the Essence 
Sticky Zipper 
Tax Evasion 
Thick N Thin 
Unknown Right Arete 

Penitentiary Wall

Submitted By: Adam Broadbent on Dec 29, 2001
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
Views: 1,677 page views

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BETA PHOTO: 1) Rehabilitation 2) Deception 3) Life Sentence...


Description 

All routes are trad and are on the finest quartzite rock. There are many moderate routes that are fantastic for the beginner to intermediate climber (5.7-5.9+), all offer protection that is superb and plentiful. On the more demanding routes (5.10R and above) the protection is small and a little tricky to place, but secure once fitted correctly. Most routes follow obvious cracks and all have some sort of rappel at the top (bring some ditch webbing in case the old rap anchors are crusty). The area is best in the summer, but can be climbed in fall (snow permitting). Not much for camping offered nearby, but for the truly determined camping is allowed anywhere within a quarter mile from Big Cottonwood river, no fires.


Getting There 

This crag lies on the south side of Big Cottonwood Canyon, above the Ledgemere Picnic area. Drive 1.4 miles past the neon sign at the mouth of the canyon, park at the camp or along the road to avoide paying a $2 fee that is enforced during the summer. To get to the crag, walk across the bridge into Ledgemere camp and head east (left) until an obvious high traffic talus slope presents itself wandering up the south side of the canyon. Follow the loose talus for two hundred yards or so, then break left (east) into a gully, (blue spray paint marks the mouth of the gully thanks to some obvious losers) . The routes are on the north facing wall, spread along it for a hundred yards or so.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Penitentiary Wall:
Climb and Punishment   5.9-     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Jailbait   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Minimum Security   5.10a R     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Browse More Classics in Penitentiary Wall

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Penitentiary Wall w/o lines

BETA PHOTO: Penitentiary Wall w/o lines


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By Nathan Fisher
Jun 27, 2004

Actually, camping is permitted as long as it is "more" than "1/2" mile from the road.