BETA PHOTO: The face just left of the roof band is "Unforgiven...
Description
Great area for the beginners (5.5 to 5.9-) with a few challenging routes on the eastern wall(5.11a to 5.13a). Almost all if not all can be top roped. There are 5 bolted routes on the western end of the wall 5.8 being the easiest and getting harder as you go left or east. the second to last is a 5.9- I dont know the rating on the last of these 5. Also on this end there are 2 or 3 sets of chains to set up top ropes, the climbing is probably about 5.5 to 5.7. There are some trees you can use as well for anchors, bring long runners. The harder climbing is located about 200-300 yards upstream or east. The hardest of the bunch being a 5.13a is the only bolted route on this end. The crag stays in the shade most of the morning in the summer.
Getting There
Drive about 1 mile up the canyon and you sill see the Dogwood picnic area on your right. You can either park in here for $5 dollars a car or if the stream is low enough you can drive another .15 up the canyon and park on the side of the road and just hop across the stream.
Fun climbing with a good range of routes and no approach-which is why it gets PACKED. Don't even try after work unless you like crowds and waiting. Even so, sitting next to a stream in the shade with other climbers is not a bad place to wait.
Last time up there I saw a new bolted line just east of I Think I'm Going Bald. Any Info??
By Ryan Peterson From: North Salt Lake, Utah Jun 23, 2007
This place gets busy fast. We showed up at 8:30 and had it to ourselves today (saturday), but at 9:30 there were suddenly 20 people toproping.
River was low enough to walk across, but couldn't do any of the middle routes without a silly little traverse and a horrible belay position. Was kinda fun though.