For Whom the Bells Toll 

FA:  Tristan Higbee and James Garrett, 5 June 2009 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.7 [details] Length:  5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade II Season:  Anytime When Dry Views: 512 page views Submitted By: James Garrett on Jun 5, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. MORE INFO >>> A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

BETA PHOTO: Topo.

Description 

After the 5 minute traverse over from the base of Kinabalu on East Waterfall Dome, start climbing up the low angle slabs and aretes. This enjoyable romp in Bells Canyon was traditionally equipped. It is well protected without ever presenting very difficult climbing and generally follows a straight forward line of ascent as well as descent.

Pitch #1: Climb the slab passing a fixed piton to a two-bolt belay. 5.5, 50m.

Pitch #2: Climb straight up and over a small roof past a fixed piton and continue up a short right facing dihedral. More fun slab moves brings the climber to a ledge and belay at a tree. 5.5, 35m.

Pitch #3: Continue up delightful patina on great rock. Pass a two-bolt rappel station and follow 6 more bolts to a ledge and two-bolt belay. 5.6, 50m.

Pitch #4: Go straight up past one bolt on the slab to a steep massive boulder protected by two bolts. Climb up the wondrous knobby jugs, turn the corner, and reach the two-bolt belay in short order. 5.7, 35m.

Pitch #5: A fun final pitch climbs chicken heads and stretch across a gap to more knobs and a mantle finale onto a table top two-bolt belay party summit. 5.5, 20m.

Great 360 degree views into Little Cottonwood Canyon, into the Salt Lake Valley, and of course down to the waterfall in Bells Canyon.

Rappel 7 times easily down the route with one 70m rope.

Location 

Best access seems to be the approach as for the route Kinabalu on East Waterfall Dome. Continue 20m up past the base of that route and find a cleared trail back west into the gully separating the two domes. This route ascends the far right (east) side of Waterfall Dome and is characterized by a plethora of Wasatch granite chickenheads and knobs. A small cairn marks the beginning of the route and the rope up area.

Protection 

QDs and small assortment of Camalots from C3 - .75. A few long slings. One 70m rope works best and is recommended.

Photos of For Whom the Bells Toll Slideshow

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James on the first pitch.	James on pitch 3. Great pitch!	Me on pitch 4. Fun moves!
James on pitch 5.	James on top. The top of the route is actually the...	Me on top, very glad that the rain didn't last ver...
Mountain goat posing for a photo.	One of the fine views from the top.