BETA PHOTO: Beckey Route, 5.9 R - in RED (zoom in for a better...
Description
1st: Thin left diagonalling ramp - crux and R part. Continue up shallow right facing corner to stance at shrubs. 2nd: Groove/offwidth pod to easier ground up and left to base of massive right facing corner - 5.8 3rd: Up the corner to belay stance above small tree as the rock starts to kitty litter - 5.7 4th: Up corner some more to underclind right out roof into smaller right facing corner. 20' up corner to another escape right at a smaller roof. Continue up worsening vague rock to summit ridge.
Location
Descent down back and left to notch seperating West Bell and un-named granite formation downhill from it. Scramble down the horrendous loose notch back to base.
I soloed so it wasn't, but there was fixed gear at the crux move ... I think it was a fat aluminum bashie? ... didn't look at it too close. If you can climb 5.10 wasatch granite I think you can pretty easily start the crux, back off to a rest & repeat until you figure out the right setup. Good rests before & after so just 10' max of trickiness.
The 1st pitch is just really awkward. The crux proper has a bolt. It really isn't scary unless 5.9 is your limit, I remember pro being there but slightly spaced.
And the rock is total shite on every pitch but the first, it gets progressively worse as you continue IMO.
Always found it funny that route has 2 stars in the Ruckman guide, maybe it was the FA'ers reputation that earned the stars?
This route was somewhat historical. The first ascent was by Fred Beckey, Dick & Rich Ream and Larry Evans in 1963. The FFA was done by George Lowe and Lenny Nelson in 1966. This was a bold effort for the first ascent party as the last pitch, which is unprotected, was done in the old kletter shoes.
I noticed that Wasatch Rock Climbs also gave this route 2 stars (out of a 3 star rating system) Those earlier guides did IMO over rate the quality, but perhaps as you mentioned Tyler, it was for historical reasons. Les Ellison, who had done the route 3 or 4 times insisted that it was a great route, so I guess the quality rating stuck. Les loved Bells Canyon.
The route for me wasn't bad, because one of the upper pitches has a good corner crack, but there was a bit of gritty rock. I'd give it a MP rating of a star or two.
I bet it was more than challenging to do that route with out sticky rubber, that thing is rice-y. I was just talking about this route with the person I did it with and he reminded me of the upper crack I think you are talking about, he reminded me it had really cool traversing moves on cool big holds, so maybe my bomb is a bit much. The descent might be the worst bushwacking in Bells though... all part of the experience of those domes though.
West Bell Tower
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