Pic of me leading the 3rd pitch of Ellsworth-McQua...
Description
Oh, what to say about this route! It follows a really striking line up the Middle Bell Tower, but has really bad rock! Easily pick this route out by looking for the obvious continuous dihedral which goes through 2 huge roofs. I had to give this 2 stars because the positioning is so cool, but that is a generous quality rating. Good rock quality is found for the first 2 pitches, but it gets much worse after passing the Arm and Hammer exit.
P1) Incredible roof traverse pitch. This pitch is 3-star quality, and has good rock. Easily climb up to the monster roof, then traverse the roof right for 40 feet of fun climbing. A set of chain anchors ends this pitch immediately after finishing the roof. (5.7)
P2) Squeeze. Good rock, but this is an unpleasant squeeze chimney. Grunt up this passing 3 old bolts (nails?!?) on the right face. The crack can be somewhat protected with a #4 camalot. Of the 3 bolts, the first looks like a nail with a wingnut attached, the second has a hanger, and the 3rd is bashed into the rock (and completely unusable). The first can be used if slung with a small stopper or rivet hanger. This pitch ends at a nice ledge with a 3 bolt anchor, or can be combined with pitch 1. (5.7)
P3) This pitch looks good... Climb up the variable sized dihedral through rapidly deteriorating rock for 100 feet to another ledge with a 2 bolt, 1 piton anchor. Watch out for the face holds on the right, they tend to just flake away. (5.7)
P4) Yuck. Climb up a rotten crack, which quickly reaches a squeeze chimney. Laugh at the bolt on the left face, then grunt up hoping your footholds don't flake away. Clip another odd bolt on the right face, then traverse slightly left to a sealed up crack (maybe protectable at the start by a Lowe Ball). Continue up this unprotectable mungy rock to a 2 bolt (nail?) anchor. (5.6)
P5, P6) Rock gets even worse! I chose to rap the route from here. If not, this next pitch goes up a steep unprotectable bush and dirt filled choss groove to the second big roof. The roof looks easy, but unpleasant to reach. Another pitch apparently climbs through a rotten corner to the top.
Descent) It is possible to rap to the ground from the top of P4 using only one 60m rope. Gingerly rap off the scary P4 anchor to reach a solid anchor. From here, it is a straight forward rap 3 times to each anchor and down to the ground.
Protection
Standard Rack. Definitely bring a #4 camalot!!! It seemed like 2 would be nice on most pitches. I placed at least one on every pitch.
The remainder of the route gets better after bushwacking up to the second roof. This pitch is definately spooky, but can be protected, just clean the gravel out of the crack. There is a nice belay stance past the roof with a bolt to incorporate. The pitch following is a cool dihedral that is fairly clean, once it gets steep again 5.6/5.7. Different options exist here and most are mellow to the top of the tower 5.6. Watch your step, as the lower angle slabs are covered with gravel. To rap the line you have to stop after the second roof otherwise prepare for a terrible walk off to the east.
I climbed this to Arm and Hammer last fall. You really should combine pitch one and two together (need a 60 meter rope). Also someone replaced on of the junk bolts in the squeeze chimney, if I remember right there is a new on where the old stud with a wingnut used to be, then you can clip the old rusted 1/4er just above. The replacement of the bolt makes you feel much better going into the layback section.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator May 19, 2006 rating: 5.7
I know it is kind of oxymoronic, but I felt the squeeze was rather pleasant. I have definitely done less-likable squeezes, but this one was rather straightforward. First pitch magnificent.
Tony, Can I have that weird oval-ish hanger from the first pitch? Clipping that was one of the highlights of the climb.
By Tyler King From: Salt Lake, UT Jun 26, 2008 rating: 5.7
Great Route. Pitches 1-4 are classic, with excellent granite! We had trouble getting to the "top." My climbing partner climbed pitches 6 and 7 up through the trough passing 2 belay stations (webbing around a bush) And as we were out of water, exhausted, and low on time he said there was nothing to see and the climbing sucked. so we rapped down the route. I was under the impression that you could walk off this route (i.e. reach the top) Does it sound like we got to the "top"???
I think you answered your own question Tyler. If you rapped with out topping out, did you make it to the top? It doesn't sound like it to me. The last pitches are full on adventure for sure, I remember climbing a 5.8-ish gash full of ball bearings then topping out to that sweet view of the SLC valley and upper Bells. You should go back. And you most definitely walk off.....bush wack hell!
Middle Bell Tower
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