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Warthog 

Warthog 

5.10c

   

FA: Tom Bailey
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 35 feet
Views: 131 page views

Submitted By: John Ross on Jul 19, 2009


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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

BETA PHOTO: Warthog 5.10c, Tank Canyon


Description 

A couple of strong moves gets you to the 1st bolt. The crux is getting to the 2nd bolt. Either do a tough mantle, or stem to the right and use some small holds to stand up on a sloping ledge. Staying right of the bolt line, find some hidden holds and small feet to clip the third. Pull over the bulge to easier terrain to the chains.

For top-rope climbing, scramble up the short 5th class section around to the right.


Location 

Walk 100 yards up the canyon trail from Two O'clock Rock. The climb is found in a shady grove of pine trees.


Protection 

3 bolts to chain anchors.



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By John Ross
From: Spanish Fork, UT
Jul 19, 2009

I'd call it a harder .10c as Perin and I both thought this felt .10d. But .10c is what we were told it is rated.

By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Sep 5, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c

Christian found a new hold that had a loose rock in it today, and I think that knocked this thing down to 10b or at least made it an eaiser 10c, but it's not 10d anymore if it was before. It makes the move to the second bolt significantly more doable.

This climb was a lot of fun, with a cool start and a great move to the second bolt, but it is really poorly bolted (sorry to whoever bolted it). The bolts are all in undesirable places, or in areas that don't allow for good climbing at all if you followed them. Just my opinion.

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Sep 5, 2009

An interesting little line and yes, the new sharp hold (hard to find if you don't know right where it's at) makes the crux a lot easier.
The bolting issue that Chris is referring to is that it would make more sense for the second and third bolts to be further right and, although it is unlikely, if you somehow fell at bolt number 2, you could easily deck. Also, a slightly longer chain for the anchor would be a good idea.