A well-protected, long route with wonderfully diverse movement.
Start up with tricky, but not difficult moves past the first bolt, and make a somewhat strenuous clip on the second bolt. Getting past the second bolt is the crux of the route, requiring careful body positioning, clever use of the holds that exist, and primarily, faith that it really can be done.
After the second bolt continue up through all sorts of movement, including delicate face moves, semi-burly liebacking, balancy sidepulling, etc.
After the sixth bolt start trending right, following the finger/hand crack. Surmount a series of narrow ledges on your way to the anchors at the top.
Location
On the left of the gully (facing uphill), this route is the first bolted line to the right of the chimney containing the yellowish, triangular rock.
Protection
10 bolts, double-ring anchors. It's easiest to clean while following on toprope, but cleaning is doable while being lowered.
This is my favorite 10d in AF. It has so many great features that it is a blast to climb and its long! The Visionary Wall setting is a very beautiful area to climb and in the shade. Thanks to the Visionaries who developed this area. The second bolt is definitely the crux with a barn door you get to navigate.
By Jeff Jones From: Elk Ridge, UT Jul 22, 2009 rating: 5.10d
WOW!! Kip was right. This is a great route and a little bit of a puzzler. I was fortunate to have the streaming beta going from bolt 2 to 3. Even then it took a couple of goes. Fun moves throughout and it just keeps on going. Don't get worried if you start getting pumped...there are several "no hands" rests along the way.
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