This is another AF endurance route. This climb works you from the first move with tricky feet and sidepulls on an overhang. It has 3 distinct sections or bulges so don't dawdle. You do get 2 good rests. Each bulge has its own crux. The first bulge is the start. The second bulge is in the middle with sloping holds. The third has a very cool left traversing bump move. There are some eye opening big moves on the whole climb. The guidebook says 11d/12a. I believe it is a worthy 12a.
Location
In the Hard Rock area this climb is the third from the left. It starts on sidepulls under the overhang. There is a permanent draw on the first bolt.
Protection
Bolts to anchors. Top has biners but go prepared. 11-12 draws.
By Spencer Anderson From: Fort Collins, CO Aug 4, 2008 rating: 5.12a
AF classic. Definitely feels on the 12a side. All of the moves are there. The most difficult part is how many sucker, chalked up pockets there are. This made it seem hard to stay on route. Hard onsight but whoa what a satisfying route.
By Hayden Eatchel From: Salt Lake City, Utah Sep 30, 2008 rating: 5.12a
12a so sick
By Bad Sock Puppet From: With the climbing Gods May 31, 2009 rating: 5.12a
A very tough onsight indeed. It's really easy to miss a lot of the better holds for some not so great holds due to the amount of chalk marks on the wall. Each roof had it's own crux, but the hardest part seemed to be pulling over the second roof. Once you're over that, then you have a great rest that is hands free. This route is more overhung then it looks, and is nothing but big move after big move. A few sketchy clips with the chance of hitting the tree if you take a big fall. Perhaps this was 11.d back in the day, but a few jugs have been broken off, some fairly recently. Bring your balls on this one. AF classic!!!
This is true, shortly after this route was put up, a major flake broke off...the one you clip the first bolt from. Later, another smaller, but key hold broke off down low, so yes! the start is much harder.
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