Climb up 20 feet of easy, broken ledges and clip the first bolt of the route on the smoother area directly above the broken area. Using underclings, reachy moves to small pockets and small-to-non-existent feet, get to the second bolt.
Use some fun holds on the top edge of the smooth area, and then start up through an increasingly overhanging section using pockets and crimps. This part is quite pumpy, and just when you’re sure you can’t hold on anymore, the pockets get smaller and less positive. After the last bolt haul yourself to easier terrain on some big edges and climb up another ten feet to the ledge with the chains.
This is a really fun climb. Even when Escape Buttress has been crowded I’ve never seen anyone on this route (or either of its two neighbors).
Location
This route is located on a bulge about 50 feet before the west end of Escape Buttress proper and is one of three routes that you encounter on your left on the way to Escape.
This is the left-most of the three routes; note that the bolts for the right-most of the routes are hard to spot. Looking at the bulge described above there is a smoother, blank-appearing area about 20 feet up from the trail. This route starts on the left of the two bolts at the bottom of the smoother area.
Protection
8 bolts, chain anchors (shared with the route to the right).
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Nov 13, 2007
I only got one try on this route before it got dark, and I failed to send it clean (I fell in the section where "the pockets get smaller and less positive"). So, take my estimated rating with a grain of salt. (Of course, even had I sent it you'd still need to suspect my guess at the rating).
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Mar 21, 2008
I got on this again today and redpointed it; I'll stick with .11b.
Escape Buttress
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