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Escape Buttress
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Motherload 

5.10b/c

   

FA: Brian Smoot
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 35 feet
Views: 162 page views

Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Aug 15, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: 1 Unknown Wolfe One 5.11b
2 Unknown Wolfe Two 5.10a
3 [[10...



Description 

A short, juggy climb up overhanging rock. Start on ledges and juggy sidepulls to the first bolt, then pockets to the second (including a nifty, smooth, white pocket lined with some sort of quartz-like deposit).

After the second bolt comes the crux. You can go right or left of the bolt. Choose wisely.


Location 

Motherload is located near the right side of Escape Buttress. It is the first route left of the evergreen tree which is located at the right side of the wall. Alternatively, it is the eighth route from the left on the main wall.


Protection 

5 bolts and chain anchors.



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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Aug 15, 2007

This is in the Ruckman guide as 5.10 (no letter). I thought it was a bit harder than Twist and Shout and a bit easier than Jug for Joy.

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Sep 3, 2007

I just noticed that this route is in Stewart Green's Rock Climbing Utah at 5.10b/c. Since I'm sure he's much better at judging ratings than I, I changed this from 5.10a to 5.10b/c.