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Escape Buttress
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Awakening 
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Unknown Wolfe Two 

Denied 

5.10c

   

FA: Brian Smoot
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 195 page views

Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 27, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: 1 Unknown Wolfe One 5.11b
2 Unknown Wolfe Two 5.10a
3 [[10...



Description 

Start to the left of a ledge and haul on huge pockets to the first bolt. More pockets and edges to the second bolt, then it gets briefly thinner without pockets to the third. Big pockets to the fourth bolt and then the angle eases considerably to less than vertical through the fifth bolt and then the chains.

Important safety tip: Don't fall at the fifth bolt (although if you made it that far, you'd really have to be asleep to manage a fall).

If the climbing through the first four bolts were duplicated above this would be as good as Monkey Meet.


Location 

Located on an indentation on the right side of the main Escape Buttress wall. This is the 7th route from the left on the main wall, or, alternatively, 4th from the right.


Protection 

5 bolts to chains.



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By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Jul 30, 2007
rating: 5.10b

This would be an easy onsight if you're comfortable with climbing on the rest of the routes on Escape Buttress. The crux is going above the 2nd bolt, just like all Escape routes. I didn't think this was any harder than Steel Graffiti, the 10b to the right of Twist and Shout.

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jul 30, 2007

What Walt is trying to say is...he saw me onsight it so it can't be very hard. I certainly had more trouble with Steel Graffiti, but Denied is 10c in the Ruckman guide so that's what I put it in as.

By Alec
Jun 14, 2008
rating: 5.10-

Probably more like 5.10a, when compared to Steel Graffiti anyway. It's pretty run out after the overhanging bit but not at all steep. Be careful.