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Hell Cave
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El Diablo 
Half Acre 
Malvado 

Malvado 

5.13a

   

FA: Scott Frye
Type: Sport, Chipped
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 430 page views

Submitted By: Neal Carroll on Sep 12, 2004


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Description 

Please see El Diablo for information on the modified nature of this classic route.

Same start as El Diablo. At the "Sika Pocket" clip the left bolt, then continue up and a little left to the anchors.

A fun crux on crimpers, underclings and big slopey holds hit you once you depart from "El Diablo". This route was one of the all time American Fork classics...and may still be. In July/04 the anchor block fell down (Yikes!), so the future of this route is unknown. For now, either lower off the last bolt or try to finish left on Inferno, and hope those anchors don't fall off!


Protection 

Bolts, often fixed. The anchors may be gone...see below



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By Mike Personick
Jun 28, 2007

The route still goes without the anchor block up there. After the last bolt, do a sporty mantle onto a big ledge and clip the shuts to the left (these are the anchors for Inferno). Lowering off the last bolt is not a valid ascent of Malvado.