The old guide puts this route at 5.11b. When compared to the other 5.11b's on this wall Primal Magic feels a lot easier. The crux is around the 5th bolt and consists of one committing move to a jug which almost out of sight.
Location
Its the first route to the right of the overhung 5.12 section. Its vertical and its on the light colored face.
This route is much easier than its neighbor Juggernaut. Subjective ratings I guess.
By WasatchChic From: Salt Lake, Utah Aug 6, 2008 rating: 5.11b
I think the 11b rating is correct when compared to the Wasatch Range. But might agree that Juggernaut feels a bit harder... but they are quite different climbs.
By Tosh Peters From: Park City, UT Sep 3, 2008 rating: 5.11b
this thing is fun. pocket pulling up to a big layback feature with the crux coming at the end of the feature. i felt like it was just as hard as suicide blonde but i havnt done juggernaut yet.
the crux move on juggernaut is harder than any move on primal magic...however, pm has bigger initial moves and is slightly more sustained. interesting/misleading crux.
Chossy looking blocks of what looks like clay to the left of the lie-back and crux are bad foot holds! a few of them came off and hit my belayer from 40 ft. no bueno.
By Bad Sock Puppet From: With the climbing Gods Jun 20, 2009 rating: 5.11-
Another good climb on hardrock wall. I'd have to agree with a few of the comments, that the rating is questionable to it being an .11b, since both suicide blonde and juggernaut are both harder. What is true about this climb is that it's fun, and makes for a great warm up when you plan to work on the 5.12's to the left. I'm honestly not sure where, or even if there was a crux since there's a great stemming rest about 2/3 the way up, so you get to recover and tackle the last bit easily.
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