BETA PHOTO: Some of the areas accessed from the Grey Cliffs pa...
Description
American Fork is known for its great sport climbing on steep, pocket-filled limestone. This is the home of Hell Cave with some of the hardest routes in Utah (multiple, quality routes from .12a to .14a!)
There is also plenty to keep the moderate sport climber happy. The Membrane is one of the most popular crags in the canyon with fine routes from .9 to .12c.
The canyon is narrow and deep with plenty of trees to keep your belayer shaded in the hot summer sun. Crags are on both sides of the road. There is an entrance fee to enter the canyon from either end.
From Salt Lake City, take I-15 south to exit 284 (Alpine/Highland/Timpanogos Cave). Head east on Hwy 92 which takes you right into the canyon.
From Provo, take I-15 north to exit 276 (Pleasant Grove). Turn right and drive east towards the mountains. Take a left on State Street and drive north. Turn right on Hwy 146 (100 East) which takes you all the way to the mouth of the canyon where it joins up with Hwy 92.
You can also enter American Fork Canyon from the top of the canyon by taking Hwy 92 past the Sundance Resort. From Provo head east; from Heber City head west on Hwy 189 into Provo Canyon. Then head north on Hwy 92. This is the long, scenic route and is closed in winter.
The Little Mill Campground in American Fork Canyon is temporarily closed by order of the Forest Service due to the ongoing reconstruction. Climbers walking through the construction site and/or climbing at any of the walls accessed via the campground run the risk of being cited. This affects the Division Wall, Upper Division Wall, Pigpen (campsite 33) and the climbs above campsite 42. Signs have been posted, subsequently torn down, and will be posted again. The Forest Service is concerned about liability, so please honor the closure. The project is scheduled to be wrapped up by the July 4th holiday. Stay tuned for further American Fork access updates…
American Fork Canyon has had some major new walls that are being developed above tibble fork reservoir. I hear it is some of the best climbing in the canyon. I also know that there are some new, easy routes (5.6-5.8) that have been bolted lower in the canyon as well. Visit Mountainworks in Provo for all the new information on the canyon.