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American Fork Canyon

Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Mar 27, 2003
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
Latitude: 40.4323  Longitude: -111.7510 
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

BETA PHOTO: Some of the areas accessed from the Grey Cliffs pa...


Description 

American Fork is known for its great sport climbing on steep, pocket-filled limestone. This is the home of Hell Cave with some of the hardest routes in Utah (multiple, quality routes from .12a to .14a!)

There is also plenty to keep the moderate sport climber happy. The Membrane is one of the most popular crags in the canyon with fine routes from .9 to .12c.

The canyon is narrow and deep with plenty of trees to keep your belayer shaded in the hot summer sun. Crags are on both sides of the road. There is an entrance fee to enter the canyon from either end.

Please read the Forest Service Policy on American Fork Canyon


Getting There 

From Salt Lake City, take I-15 south to exit 284 (Alpine/Highland/Timpanogos Cave). Head east on Hwy 92 which takes you right into the canyon.

From Provo, take I-15 north to exit 276 (Pleasant Grove). Turn right and drive east towards the mountains. Take a left on State Street and drive north. Turn right on Hwy 146 (100 East) which takes you all the way to the mouth of the canyon where it joins up with Hwy 92.

You can also enter American Fork Canyon from the top of the canyon by taking Hwy 92 past the Sundance Resort. From Provo head east; from Heber City head west on Hwy 189 into Provo Canyon. Then head north on Hwy 92. This is the long, scenic route and is closed in winter.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for American Fork Canyon:
Rockapella   5.7     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Hard Rock
Stoic Calculus   5.8     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Hard Rock
Many Options   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Hard Rock
Winds of Fire   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Hard Rock
Caress of Steel   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch   The Membrane
Platinum Blonde   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Hard Rock
Tank Trap   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Tank Canyon : Visionary Wall
Monkey Meet   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Escape Buttress
Steel Monkey   5.10d     Sport, 50 feet   The Membrane
Deep End   5.11a     Sport, 60 feet   Division Wall
Eight to Eleven   5.11b     Sport, 2 pitches, 100 feet   Hard Rock
Suicide Blonde   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Hard Rock
Juggernaut   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Hard Rock
License To Thrill   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Membrane
Teeanova   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Hard Rock
Division   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Division Wall
Liquid Oxygen   5.12a     Sport, 40 feet   Division Wall
Route 66   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch   The Membrane
Isotoner Moaner   5.12a/b     Sport, 1 pitch   Division Wall
Beeline   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   The Billboard
Browse More Classics in American Fork Canyon

Featured Route For American Fork Canyon
Starting the crux.

Gemini 5.11c  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Visionary Wall
A devious line with thin holds, balancy moves, and a strenuous iron cross-like move. Start up on the smooth face below the small roof, working the small crimps, sidepulls and footholds. The second clip is balancy and a bit thought-provoking. Find a way to get past the roof, rest a bit, and then wonder where the holds went.A bit of desperate arete-pinching later, come to a couple of (relatively) larger holds and figure out the next bulge problem. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of American Fork Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
some consider this to be the best line in the wasatch

some consider this to be the best line in the wasa...

A summer evening in <a href='/v/utah/wasatch_range/american_fork_canyon/105739274'>American Fork Canyon</a>.

A summer evening in American Fork Canyon.

Mike Kurilich on Sundance, The Hideaway

Mike Kurilich on Sundance, The Hideaway

Mike Kurilich denied the Sundance, The Hideaway

Mike Kurilich denied the Sundance, The Hideaway


Comments on American Fork Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Eric Jacobsen
May 6, 2003

drtopo.com has an online guidebook with selected climbs from american fork canyon (download pdf here) cool stuff guys

By Psycho Bob
Sep 14, 2003

American Fork Canyon has had some major new walls that are being developed above tibble fork reservoir. I hear it is some of the best climbing in the canyon. I also know that there are some new, easy routes (5.6-5.8) that have been bolted lower in the canyon as well. Visit Mountainworks in Provo for all the new information on the canyon.

Psycho Bobwww.killerclimbs.com

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Sep 3, 2008

What are the best camping options in or near American Fork for someone on a several day road trip? In the past I have camped at Little Mill Campground and in various craters along the American Fork Road past Tibble Fork Reservoir. I would especially welcome any recommendations for camp sites that get some morning sun and any newer restrictions or closures.