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Good Medicine Area

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Bear Dance, The 
Black Elk 
Dream Catcher 
Fire Water 
Forgotten Warrior 
Ghost Dance 
I Am Haunted 
Indian Summer 
Legend, The 
Medicine Man 
Moon Stone 
Peace Treaty 
Ruthie Boulder 
Sacred Hoop 
Sun Dog 
Tomahawk in the Back 
Tribal Warfare 
Vision Quest 
Wind Walker 
Wounded Knee 

Good Medicine Area

Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Aug 19, 2004
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK
Views: 5,023 page views

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

BETA PHOTO: Good Medicine Area. Good views are the other way....


Description 

This wonderful quartzite crag has mostly sport routes, but also the occasional trad and mixed route. All routes are single pitch with a good mix of grades from 5.7 to 5.12, and beautiful views of the High Uintah.


Getting There 

Park at the signed parking area for the trail to Ruth Lake, which is several miles past the top of Baldy Pass. Hike up the good trail to a cairned junction. Take the climber's trail left over some quartzite slabs to a short talus field. No bushwhacking is required, and the approach takes about 20 easy minutes. Good Medicine Wall is the first major wall the trail comes to.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Good Medicine Area:
Peace Treaty   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Black Elk   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Sacred Hoop   5.10a     Sport, 60 feet   
Tomahawk in the Back   5.10b     Sport, 75 feet   
Wounded Knee   5.10c     Sport, 65 feet   
The Legend   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
The Bear Dance   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Moon Stone   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Dream Catcher   5.11c     Sport   
Browse More Classics in Good Medicine Area

Featured Route For Good Medicine Area
Talia starting on moon stone

Moon Stone 5.11b  UT : Uinta Mountains : ... : Good Medicine Area
This climb is awesome. Awkward first bolt on slopers and pinches leads to jugs to a little inverted face climbing. Go up through a small chimney and traverse right over the roof. Then get ready for 5 bolts of dead vertical slightly overhung crimpfest. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


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Good Medicine Wall

Good Medicine Wall


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By Lee Gitlin
Aug 21, 2004

Sigh.... So the secret is out now on what I consider to be the single best climbing crag out there.

Imagine, a beautiful alpine setting, out of the heat and smog of SLC. When it's 105 in the valley, it's 75 at Ruth Lake. You will be belaying in your fleece in August here, since the crag stays in the shade.

And the routes! 24 climbs on this wall and nothing sucks. Everything is well protected with new hardware. In fact, there are at least three, 3-star routes, all of them good enough by themselves to make the trip.

You may find it a bit crowded, since the Uinta Rock guide by Smith and Tusting is available. This great guide has actual photos of all the crags -- no looking at line drawings and guessing about routes.