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Under the Spell 
Way of the Increpids, The 
Why Not 
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Zadie's Ace 

Angle of Deception 

5.11d PG13

   

FA: Ben Folsom & Maura Hahnenberger November 16th, 2008
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11d [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
Views: 135 page views

Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Nov 19, 2008


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Maura on pitch 2 of "Angle of Deception" on the fi...


Description 

Pitch 1- Climb the 20 foot step which blocks further access up the slot. There is no protection on this short 5.8 pitch. Belay on a large ledge either from a good stance, a tree, or whatever you can find. 5.8R 20 feet.

Pitch 2- Just above the step, on the right hand side of the canyon is a left leaning line. Climb the crux section passing three bolts (well protected). After the third bolt an easier runout leads to bolt #4. Then climb up and left passing five more bolts with a few 5.10 sections to a two bolt belay at a good stance. 5.11d 160 feet.

Pitch 3- Climb up holes directly above the belay. At the first bolt, a tricky section leads left, then up passing 4 more bolts on excellent rock. After the last bolt, climb to the ridge and join the third pitch of "Slip Not" and climb another 80 feet or so of unprotected 5.5 climbing to a two bolt belay for pitch 3 of Slip Not. (This belay used to be a single bolt, but we re-did the anchor with two new 1/2" x 4" bolts and chain.) 5.10b r 200 feet.

To descend- rappel to the top of pitch 2, then another 200 foot rappel leads to the base of pitch 1, rappelling past the ledge at the top of pitch 1.


Location 

On the slab just to the north of Uneva Mine Canyon, to the right of "Outrunning the Dog" is a mini canyon/groove system. Walk up easy slabs (easy 3rd class) into the little slot canyon. Once in the canyon, you reach a 20 foot step. This step is the first pitch.


Protection 

Quickdraws



Photos of Angle of Deception Slideshow Add Photo
Ben on pitch 1 of "Angle of Deception" on the first ascent.<br /><br />Photo by Paul Ross

Ben on pitch 1 of "Angle of Deception" on the firs...

Ben taking a fall...on the second pitch.Photo taken from FA of Goliath's Groove photo Paul Ross

Ben taking a fall...on the second pitch.Photo take...

Lance is amused at Ben's flying practice. Photo Paul Ross

Lance is amused at Ben's flying practice. Photo Pa...

Ben Leaving the steep canyon side of pitch three and climbing the 5.5 run out section of Slip Not. photo Paul Ross

Ben Leaving the steep canyon side of pitch three a...

Maura on pitch 3 . Nearing the junction with the Slip Not ridge.photo Paul Ross

Maura on pitch 3 . Nearing the junction with the S...

Paul's two Jack Russel's took a liking to Maura.

Paul's two Jack Russel's took a liking to Maura.