Dylan on the first ascent of Pitch one of "The Bla...
Description
Pitch 1- Face climb up a well protected 5.10 face (5 protection bolts) to some easier runout climbing to a two bolt anchor on a small ledge. 5.10 approx. 70 feet.
Pitch 2- A tricky move above the belay with marginal protection leads into the corner. Once in the crack, better gear is attained. Stem and face climb up a thin section (crux) to better cracks up higher and a fun chimney with a hand crack in it. Exit the chimney via good hands, then continue to the top of the pillar and a two bolt belay. 5.11+ r approx. 130'
A double rope rappel reaches the ground. (We use 70 meter ropes, but I think 60 meter ropes will work to get down. If not, make two raps down the route.
Location
The route is located inside the mouth of Uneva Mine Canyon. Once inside the mouth of the canyon, scramble up a steep gully to the north (right) for a couple hundred feet to the base of the route, below a nice crack/dihedral on the left side of a large, prominent pillar.
Protection
First Pitch- Quickdraws and maybe one cam to get to the anchors. second pitch- 2-3 sets of cams from tiny to #3 camalot size. Stoppers, and maybe a few RP's (for mental pro only).
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