Fried Brains on Toast. II 5.9-R 

FA:  Paul Ross Layne Potter. 27th Aug 2008 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9- [details] Length:  3 pitches, 530 feet, Grade II Season:  Anytime Views: 196 page views Submitted By: Paul Ross on Aug 31, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: The route:-"Fried Brains on Toast" 530'II 5.9-R

Description 

As the name suggests the climb was on sighted in extreme heat (about 98f in the shade)Ultra desert heat climbing is a experience not to be missed !. P1) From the gully traverse out right towards the bottom of the brown hole filled wall ,then follow the easy groove on its left to reach the ledge below the impressive big slab.Natural belay.160'5.4R. P2) Six bolts protect this pitch that first trends up to the right then at about 140'up left to reach the start of a long diagonal groove/ledge.Double anchors.190'5.9-R. P3) Directly above the belay is one bolt that protects a 5.8 move left to reach an 5.4 slab that is followed straight up (no pro on slab) to a short crack and double anchors just below a massive ledge system.180'5.8.....Desent. Rap the route ,good tree anchor on final rap to ground.

Location 

The climb is situated about midway along the Great White Wall that lies South of Three Fingers Canyon. The walk takes about 30 mins from Three Fingers. See beta photos for visual location.

Protection 

One #2 Camelot. Quick draws ,Slings, Two 60m ropes.

Photos of Fried Brains on Toast. II 5.9-R Slideshow

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Paul starting the long second pitch.Photo Layne Po...	About a 140'up on the second pitch.From here the c...	Nearing the belay area top of pitch 2.Photo Layne ...
On top...Totally fried . View along the Northern p...	View along Great White Wall from near Three Finger...