BETA PHOTO: This is the line of Beach Boy, which is located in...
Description
Pitch 1- Climb up a right trending ramp system passing intermittent gear placements to a belay with three bolts on a large ledge. 180' 5.4 R
Pitch 2- Climb up the slab above then step right into the corner/groove. Take advantage of gear placements. When crack runs out, face climb up to a bolt, then step right and onto the main pillar to another bolt. Then climb straight up another 30 feet to the top of the pillar and a two bolt belay. 200' 5.8+ R
Pitch 3- Move the belay further up the slab (easy walking), until it steepens again. Climb directly up the slab for 230 feet to a two bolt belay on a small ledge. 230' 5.0 X Pretty much no gear possibilities on this pitch... (but it's super easy)
Pitch 4- continue up easy ground until the slab becomes flat. Continue until the slab steepens again at a nice flat ledge. 300' 4th class
Pitch 5- Climb up the slab to a nice ledge with a two bolt belay. 200' 5.5 X
Pitch 6- Continue up the slab climbing a really nice dike formation which is very interesting and fun climbing. You will arrive at a ledge with a two bolt belay. 180' 5.5 X
Pitch 7- Continue up to the summit via easy climbing. There are no anchors on the summit, but the climbing is mostly 4th class with a 5.0 move near the top (but not really exposed). 215' 5.0
Descent- Downclimb from the summit to the top of pitch 6. From there a series of 200 foot rappels from good anchors gets you down to the ground. The only pitch you don't rappel is the 300 foot 4th class pitch 4. All rappel stations were established while descending the route.
Note- All bolts are Rawl red and blue sleeve 4 inch x 3/8" bolts. I ran out of quick links on the way down, so the upper anchors are set up better than the lower anchors. All anchors are good however and despite the low angle of the route, the ropes pulled fine on each rappel.
Note- We also left a summit register at the top of pitch 6. It was a more comfortable place to hang out than the summit, and it is pretty much the end of the technical climbing. It is located in a hole in a rock mound on a large ledge near the anchors. There is a cairn in front of the hole.
Location
This route is located on the buttress to the left of the canyon where Easy Street is located. It starts below a skinny, nice pillar formation on the left side of a small slot canyon. Refer to photo which I will post.
Protection
A set of medium to large stoppers, A set of cams from #0.5 to #4 camalot size. Longs slings and some quickdraws.
Eastern Reef Slabs
RSS Feed
