Sitting Duck Tower - It's all a Farce 

FA:  Ben Folsom, Maura Hahnenberger Nov. 4th 2007 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad, Aid Consensus:  5.8 C2 [details] Length:  2 pitches, 260 feet, Grade II Views: 150 page views Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Nov 6, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: The South Face of Sitting Duck. Its All A Farce c...

Description 

The route climbs the obvious crack system in the center of the south face.

Pitch 1- C2 climbing passing two bolts to avoid loose rock leads to C1 climbing in a gradually widening crack. When the crack gets too wide for gear, a nine bolt ladder leads to a 5.8 chimney to a two bolt hanging belay on a small stance. 5.8 C2 200ft.

Pitch 2- A 5.8 runout left then up leads to a ledge. Continue up passing two more bolts and a short section of C2 to the summit and a two bolt belay/rappel anchor.

To descend, rappel the route.

Location 

This tower is located near Swaseys Secret. From the turnoff to Swaseys Cabing from the Rods Valley Road, go south for 1 mile to a road on the right. Drive west on this road for 0.4 miles to the parking area at the end of the road. The tower is just north of the parking area. Walk up to the base (about 5 minutes from the car).

Protection 

Three sets of cams to #4 camalots and 2 #4.5 and #5 camalots. (Those are the old sizes) Expect to do some leapfrogging. Stoppers (or rivet hangers) for four hangerless bolts.

Add Photo Photos of Sitting Duck Tower - It's all a Farce

Ben on pitch 1 of Its All A Farce, first ascent.	Maura near the top of pitch 1 on Its All A Farce, ...	Ben on the summit of Sitting Duck Tower, first asc...