Desert Guardian 

FA:  Ben Folsom & Maura Hahnenberger Oct. 28th 2007 New Route:  Yes Type:  Aid Consensus:  5.10 C2 [details] Length:  2 pitches, 220 feet, Grade II Views: 101 page views Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Oct 29, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Desert Guardian- Pitch one follows the obvious ch...

Description 

Pitch 1- Start on the SW corner of the tower and climb the obvious chimney with chockstones in the back of it to a two bolt belay on a nice ledge. 5.8R 90 feet.
(You can also avoid the chimney by 4th class scrambling to the right of the chimney up a very loose gully system, but the chimney is good).

Pitch 2- Move the belay up to a nice, sandy, flat area in the middle of group of summits. Face west and climb a 5.9+ crack to a ledge. Look left and clip a bolt. 5.10 face climbing left and up leads to another bolt. An aid move leads to one more bolt, then C2 climbing leads to 5.8 climbing to gain a ledge below the summit pinnacle. 5.8+ R climbing leads to a two bolt belay at the summit. There is a summit register under some rocks on the top.
To Descend, rappel the route.

Location 

From the turnoff to Sulphur Canyon the tower is visible to the north. From the turnoff drive 3/4 of a mile and park at a nice camping spot just west of the tower. From the parking area walk up the talus directly towards the tower.

Protection 

2 sets of camming units from very small to a #4 camalot size. Stoppers come in handy as well.

Add Photo Photos of Desert Guardian

Maura Hahnenberger coming up the first pitch chimn...	Ben Folsom on the second pitch of Desert Guardian ...	Maura Hahnenberger on the summit of Desert Guardia...
BETA PHOTO: Desert Guardian from the turnoff into Sulphur Cany...