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The Sorcerer's Apprentice 

5.10

   

FA: Paul Ross, Andy Ross. October 25th 2007
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
Views: 191 page views

Submitted By: Paul Ross on Oct 27, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: (A. "Layne Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone"5.9R.(B...


Description 

Located on the formation on the north side of Three Fingers Canyon.Takes a line to the right of the route Layne Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone. Starts from the v-notch north and below the central wave (see Photo).Walk north from Three Fingers for about 10 mins. The climb starts about 60' up right from the lowest part of the notch. Small cairn.Pitch one is Classic. (P1.Climb to a pro bolt at 25' then follow more pro bolts past some very thin moves trending right to a groove.Climb the groove then one more bolt to double anchors. 200'5.10 (P2.Cross the corn flake slab on the left passed one bolt to a groove,up this and follow holds to the left and double anchors just below a large ledge. 180'5.7R. From here one can descend from these anchors straight down to a large ledge and other rap anchors on southern end of ledge (top of "LP and Sorcerer's Stone P1)to the ground. Or follow ledge south and forth class several hundred feet to the summit block and climb a short final 5.6/7 crack pitch to the top and fine views.


Location 

Drive to the mouth of Three Fingers Canyon. Walk north for 10 mins.See Photo.


Protection 

Cams from 1/4" to 3.5 Friends. slings,quick draws, two 60m ropes.



Photos of The Sorcerer's Apprentice Slideshow Add Photo
Paul Ross starting the thin section on the 200' 5.10 first pitch.

Paul Ross starting the thin section on the 200' 5....

Paul starting across the corn flake slab ,second pitch.

Paul starting across the corn flake slab ,second p...

Exiting the groove second pitch 180' 5.7R

Exiting the groove second pitch 180' 5.7R

Leaving the Eastern Reef .

Leaving the Eastern Reef .