Just Dreams 

FA:  Paul Ross. John Glime New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10- [details] Length:  4 pitches, 800 feet, Grade II Views: 358 page views Submitted By: Paul Ross on Oct 2, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Paul at first bolt P1

Description 

Situated on the Sinister Slab formation. Approach from the Three Finger Canyon trail .About quarter mile before the entrance walk north for about 20 mins.Starts 50' right of "Faith Hope and Clarity" The climb is on good rock and has two excellent slab pitches(P1.Climb up past a bolt at 30'. Then a .75"Cam to another bolt.Continue to double anchors. 170'5.8R (P2.Easy grooves and slab lead to a black block below the right hand slim clean groove.(the grooves on the left are Faith Hope and Clarity) Double anchors. 250 5.3.(P3.Superb pitch ,quite sustained. Climb the slab for about 50' to the entrance of the groove. Up the groove ,at the third bolt move out of the groove to the right to another bolt.Continue delicately passed two more bolts then enter the wide groove follow this to double anchors.200' 5.10R. (P4.Follow the fine slim groove and slab to double anchors. 100'5.6R Descent:-Across to the south about 100' are rap anchors of Return of the Crocks . Use these .Two raps to reach ledges then scrable down to more anchors ,from here one rap down FHC first pitch to ground.

Location 

Walk from the Three Fingers Trailhead north for about 20 mins to the Sinister Slab formation. See Pics.

Protection 

Cams alien to 2".. Couple of medium stoppers.Slings, Two 60M ropes

Add Photo Photos of Just Dreams

Nearing the top on the 170' first pitch	Ross entering the first groove on the 200'5.10 thi...	Johns self portrait seems to say he is quite pleas...
Moving out of the groove on very delicate friction...	Pitch 4 . Another 100' groove to the summit	BETA PHOTO: Sinister Slab formation. (A)The Return of the Croc...