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Eastern Reef Slabs
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Surfing The Swell 
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The Road to Mecca 

5.5

   
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FA: John Glime, Paul Ross (Alt Leads) Sept 29, 2007
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 5 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade II
Views: 367 page views

Submitted By: Paul Ross on Oct 1, 2007


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John on first pitch.


Description 

The climb was named The Road to Mecca as the route is very holy!. Starts about the same level as the start to Death by Chocolate but at the bottom of the slot canyon at the top pool.Those parties that have enjoyed the climb "1000'of Fun" will find this easy mountaineering type climb has a similar atmosphere and great views from its summit.(P1.Follow the slanting brown dyke on the right of the pool towards the holes.Double anchors.200'5.5. (P2. Up to the right and gain the long road of holes,follow to double anchors. 200' 5.3. (P3. Continue the holy way to double anchors. 200'5.3.(P4. Continue the pilgrimage to double anchors.200'5.3.Straight very holey slab, cross the big crack and up to an ledge/alcove just below the summit.200'5.0. Scramble 60' to summit and register in cairn.Descent...It is advisable to down climb the very easy last pitch as pulling ropes down this very rough slab would be difficult. From the anchors top of pitch 4 rap the route.


Location 

One goes up the same slot canyon as for "Death by Chocolate"If the lower pools have water (sometimes about waist deep)and one has a fear of water there is an alternative via the one pitch "Aquaphobia" 5.4/5.It also brings one past the awkward little groove.If dry the canyon approach is the easiest to find.Alternative:- At the very entrance of the slot canyon on the north side scramble up the narrow bush filled gully .continue and look out for a ramp leading back left then right and down climb an easy crack for 15 feet, then continue up the terrace to find double rap anchors.100' rap back into the canyon and easy walk to the climbs: the climb back out up the rappel line,this is "Aquaphobia" 5.4/5!


Protection 

Take a small rack and slings, mainly for the first pitch or when ever. Two 60m ropes.



Add Photo Photos of The Road to Mecca
Paul Pitch 2

Paul Pitch 2

Looking up pitch 3

Looking up pitch 3

Looking across the canyon to the slim ramps of the route "The Day of Atonement"

Looking across the canyon to the slim ramps of the...

John following pitch 4

John following pitch 4

John topping out pitch 5

John topping out pitch 5

 Showing route...Climber top of P1 .

BETA PHOTO: Showing route...Climber top of P1 .


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By EdwardWalker
From: western, colorado
Nov 9, 2007

Paul and etc. We were excited to do this route on Monday because it looks great and is right in our grade, but we got lost and couldn't find the slot to climb up. I'm sure we saw it, but i guess i wasn't sure which one it was. Could it be possible to take/post a pic of the slot that leads to the bottom of the route? Infact, you guys/gals did such a nice job in this area, putting in all the routes would it be possible to post an over view map and comman paths to hike, so we don't beat up the area and can find all of these kickass pitches. just a thought. Ned Walker

By Paul Ross
Nov 9, 2007

Hi. It is difficult to find things as it is a big complex area. I think if you study Death By Choc and Day of Atonement you will see there is only one slot canyn that goes below this formation and of course Road to Mecca. You might find the 4th class slot approach more difficult that the Mecca route??It has a bit of a struggle up a V groove ,that is fun with a pack on your back . Everything out there both the approaches and the routes can involve a lot of adventure. We learn't the hard way it does takes time.....

By Craig Martin
Nov 22, 2007
rating: 5.6

For what it is worth, the first pitch of this route felt no easier than the crux pitch of 1,000 Feet of Fun. The protection is more involved and the climbing more sustained. Great route, the approach is a fun little adventure all on its own.

By EdwardWalker
From: western, colorado
Mar 11, 2008

Well we have entered that crazy time in colorado were the mud seems to be around every corner; so it sounds like we will be returning to the eastern swell this weeked, Hope the weather holds and to see you all there.Ned