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Zadie's Ace 

Tynesider's Lament 

5.9

   

FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter, Sept 27, 2007
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 800 feet, Grade II
Views: 172 page views

Submitted By: Paul Ross on Oct 1, 2007


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P.Ross on First Pitch


Description 

Starts about 50' right of Tsunami (small cairn) ,located on the Surfing the Swell formation.Nice climbing ,has a small section of flaky rock.The crux on the third pitch is short and well protected. (P1. Up the slab towards on undercut crack,then climb to a bolt at 100'. Continue slightly to the right to double anchors. 200'5.6R. (P2. Straight up to a bolt at about 30', trend up right then back left to a bolt at the bottom of a right facing corner. Follow Corner to good juniper tree belay. 140'.5.8.(P3. Climb about 40'passed two bolts on awkward rock (crux) then follow the yellow arete above and right of the Tsunami groove, through a notch to good ledge and double anchors.180' 5.9d (P4.Up black easy slabs to reach anchors at top of P4 Tsunami.240' 5.0. Descend route or follow Tsunami (about 400'+) to a fine summit and views.Descent:- Rap 200' to a rap sling on a spike .Here one can 4th class down and around the corner to the left and anchors at the top of P3 ,then 3 raps to the ground.


Location 

Located on the Surfing the Swell formation . See route photo.


Protection 

One #2 Camelot. two quick draws . slings Two 60m ropes.



Photos of Tynesider's Lament Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 2

Pitch 2

The 180' 5.9 pitch 3.

The 180' 5.9 pitch 3.

Layne top of pitch 4

Layne top of pitch 4

Wey-I-Man.....Swell A Team !!

Wey-I-Man.....Swell A Team !!

The Route

BETA PHOTO: The Route