The route starts on an obvious prow on the south side of the canyon, approximately 250 feet from the huge dryfall and above a series of potholes.
Pitch 1- Climb straight up prow passing eight bolts and an optional #3 or #3.5 camalot placement in a pocket. You arrive at a two bolt anchor on a ledge. 5.10 PG-13 200 feet.
Pitch 2- Climb straight up passing four bolts till you reach a steep headwall. Traverse right on nice edges to another bolt. A tricky move right brings you to a #0.5 camalot placement, then up and right to a two bolt anchor on a small ledge. 5.11 80 feet.
Pitch 3- Climb up and left passing a bolt and climb across a beautiful, steep black face to a second bolt. Follow weakness left and up passing three more bolts to a two bolt anchor on a ledge. 5.12 80 feet.
Pitch 4- Continue up the corner to a bolt. Step up and right to a second bolt. Runout climbing brings you to a nice corner and cam placements. Climb the corner to a nice and interesting belay spot and two bolt anchor. 5.11- R 80 feet.
Pitch 5- Climb up and left passing two bolts. Continue up to a nice ledge and two bolt anchor. 5.10+ PG 60 feet.
Pitch 6- Easy 5th class scrambling up and right leads to the summit and a small cairn. (No Anchor) Approximately 250 feet.
Descent- Downclimb to the anchors at the top of pitch 5. Rappel the route. The first two rappels are short, the others require two ropes.
Notes- The route is commiting after you reach the second belay. If the third pitch is not completed, you need two seventy meter ropes to rappel over a huge roof from the belay at the top of the second pitch.
Route established ground up, and all bolts placed from free climbing stances.
Location
The route is located in "Bongo Canyon" which is about a 10 minute walk south from the trailhead of Uneva Mine Canyon. Bongo Canyon has a huge amphitheater and dryfall making it very obvious.
Protection
Quickdraws, long slings and a set of cams from #0.5 to #3.5 camalots
RSS Feed
Slideshow
