Lance starting up pitch 4 of The Hunter. This is ...
Description
The climb starts in the first major canyon south of Uneva Mine Canyon and climbs the steep, obvious, white ramp in the middle of a very steep wall. The ramp is visible and striking from the parking area/trailhead for Uneva Mine Canyon. To reach the base of the route, follow fain't trails (keeping off of cryptobiotic soil) to the mouth of the canyon. At the mouth, scramble up a 15 foot step in the bottom of the slot to the base of the route. Note- the route is broken into two sections, the approach pitches up the slot canyon, and then the amazing white ramp. Pitch 1- Climb the slab on the left hand side of the canyon up and right on brown rock passing two bolts to reach a two bolt belay at the bottom of the next slot. 115 feet 5.7r Pitch 2- Continue up the slot and solo up a 15 foot step (5.7). Continue to a 30 foot step and solo up it at 5.8 (no pro). Continue to the base of another slab. ---Variation to pitch 2 (we discovered this on the descent). From the bottom of the slot at the top of the first pitch, scramble up the slab to the right. Climb the slab then move back left to the slot. (this avoids the 5.8 solo) Easy fifth class. Note- you must downclimb this slab for the descent of the route! Pitch 3- Climb up the groove then traverse back left across the slab to a two bolt belay on a ledge. 5.3 (no pro) 150 feet. Pitch 4- This is the beginning of the white ramp system section of the route! Move up the ledge/slot to a chockstone. Climb up a beautiful, faint prow passing seven bolts up and right to a two bolt hanging belay. 5.11b 120 feet. Pitch 5- Climb up and right on amazing brown dike passing eight bolts to a two bolt hanging belay. 5.11c 140 feet. Pitch 6- Easier climbing up and right passing two bolts, then up and left to a two bolt belay on a ledge near the top of the buttress. 5.9 120 feet. Pitch 7- Easy scramble to the south leads to the summit of the large tooth where Dread Naught and Sunshine slab top out. 4th class.
Descent- Scramble back down to the belay at the top of pitch 6. Rappel down the the top of pitch 5. From there a two rope rappel leads straight down into the slot. Downclimb the slot (5.6) back to the belay at the top of pitch 3. Another two rope rappel leads to the bottom of pitch 3. From there go to the top of the pitch 2 solo steps and downclimb the easy, but exposed slab just north of the slot. (this is the same slab which is the variation of pitch 2). This leads to a two bolt belay which is the top of pitch 1. From there, a 1 rope rappel (with 70 meter rope) reaches the bottom of the route.
Note- Route was established on the lead and all bolts drilled from free stances. Excellent climbing and position!
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