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Little Spotted Wolf Canyon (on Eastern Reef Slabs )
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Wandering Poet 

5.12 PG13

   

FA: Lance Bateman & Ben Folsom May 6-7, 2006
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12 [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 450 feet, Grade III
Views: 716 page views

Submitted By: Ben Folsom on May 9, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: Photo/Topo of "Wandering Poet"


Description 

Pitch 1- Scramble up rubble slope to small tree. From there a few tenuous moves lead to a soft, narrow ledge system leading up and right. Climb up this and clip the first bolt at about 40 feet. Follow three more bolts up and left (a bit runout). Then climb up and right past one more bolt to a two bolt belay and stance. 5.9+ r
115 ft.
Pitch 2- Step right and clip bolt. Pull the bulge and climb up and right to another bolt. Good face climbing up and left past 5 more bolts then up and right past a soft section to a three bolt belay on a small stance. 5.11d 100 ft.
Pitch 3- Climb up past two bolts negotiating a loose block. After the second bolt, move right into the corner forming the left side of the pillar. Mixed crack and face leads past one more bolt to a three bolt belay on a perfect ledge atop the pillar. 5.10 110 ft.
Pitch 4- Climb up killer holes past three bolts. Move left on very tenuous moves past three more bolts. Climb straight up past loose flake on the left and a bolt to steep climbing on crimpers and another bolt. From there, traverse left to gain steep ramp and more tenuous climbing. Climb up and left to easier climbing, then scramble back right to the two bolt belay on top of the wall. 5.12 R 120 ft.

Note- Bolted on lead, all bolts placed from free stances.


Location 

Located about 1000 feet inside the mouth of Little Spotted Wolf Canyon on the right(north) side. The climb is located on a large, steep wall with a pillar formation at about 2/3 height. The route starts just right of a small tree below the left side of the pillar.


Protection 

Quickdraws, Long slings, Camalots #1-#4 (1 each)



Add Photo Photos of Wandering Poet
Lance on pitch 4 on the first ascent of Wandering Poet.

Lance on pitch 4 on the first ascent of Wandering ...

Lance climbing pitch 4 on the first ascent of Wandering Poet.

Lance climbing pitch 4 on the first ascent of Wand...

Lance leading pitch two on the first ascent of Wandering Poet.

Lance leading pitch two on the first ascent of Wan...