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Eastern Reef Slabs
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Reptilian Curiosity 

5.11 R

   

FA: Lance Bateman & Ben Folsom - Nov. 20, 2005
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Length: 6 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III
Views: 878 page views

Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Nov 20, 2005


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Paul Ross sent me this photo and I added our new r...


Description 

The route starts ~300' left of "1000 feet of fun" on the south face of the same cliff. Route starts on white streak left of two big holes.

P1- Climb up white streak to the first bolt at ~30'. Follow white sreak up and left passing six more bolts to the belay. 5.11R. (A fantastic desert face climbing pitch). 130'

P2- Follow chocolate colored ramp up and left passing two bolts to belay ledge with one bolt. 5.8R 130' (The belay can be backed up with large cams in a crack to the left.)

P3- Move up and right to a bolt then straight up brown holes to a ledge. (no anchor) 5.6R 110'

P4- Climb dihedral to notch, then up and left up white face passing two bolts to belay ledge (no anchor)5.8R 100'

P5- Continue up and left up V-dihedral to bolt. Mantle bulge passed bolt to gain upper groove system. Go right through notch and gain gully system to the right. Shimmy up gully passing rubble to a small, grassy ledge. 5.8 220'

P6- Continue up groove then traverse left side of ridge to gain summit anchor of "1000' of fun".

Descend down 1000 feet of fun. Notes- All bolts are 4" blue rawls


Protection 

All you need is a rack of 9 quickdraws. Although many of the upper belays are just stances from ledges. With slings and some cams those belays can be backed up.



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By Ben Folsom
Sep 22, 2006

Route established on lead, bolts drilled from free stances.